What is a Paletot Overcoat?
Paletot overcoat is a double-breasted topcoat with peaked lapels and roots in the French BCBG Aesthetic.
Fortunately, topcoat rules have never been strictly applied, so there are many paletot variations.
However, most Paletot overcoats have the following characteristics:
- Double-breasted with a 6×2 button arrangement.
- The top buttons have a wider button stance and are not buttoned at all.
- It must have peaked lapels.
- The coat is semi-fitted to fit and has a flat back without a belt.
- The pockets are aligned with the middle buttons.
Colour and Fabrics
Interestingly, there is no strict rule with regard to colour or fabric. Nevertheless, the paletot is usually made of dark, plain wool fabrics.
Length
Just like colour and fabrics, the length is not set in stone. Everything from around knee to ankle length is acceptable, though most coats are about knee length.
Buttons and Pockets
Instead of a 6×2 button configuration, you could choose 6×3 or 4×2.
The closing button position could also be moved up or down, and the same is true for the pockets.
Apart from that, slanting pockets would be a good alternative, and a ticket pocket might add an elegant touch.
Collar
If one likes unusual details, a velvet collar in a contrasting colour or elegant cuffs could be a good addition.
Back
The paletot today still has a plain back which is an ode to the town heritage.
Why Paletot Overcoat?
The Paletot is a versatile overcoat that has stood the test of time, and you can wear it for years without any alterations.
In addition, it can be combined with almost everything, from formal wear to casual wear, and you will always cut a good figure in it.
Especially for students or gentlemen with a limited budget, the Paletot is an ideal topcoat suited for a wide range of events and occasions.
Later in life, you can upgrade and refine your topcoat wardrobe, but there is always room for a good Paletot coat.
Typically made of wool, cashmere, or blends thereof, it keeps you warm, especially because it has double layers over your chest area.
To sum up, it is a classic, simple, sophisticated overcoat that will never disappoint. I think it’s a great choice, especially when you’re starting out.
You can always add coarser tweed overcoats later on, but in the beginning, it makes sense to have one overcoat that works for you on many occasions.
Choosing the Right Paletot Overcoat by Occasion
In plain navy cloth, the Paletot coat is the perfect city topcoat. It can be worn with pinstriped double-breasted suits, tuxedos, or tailcoats.
It is also a great choice for a Stroller suit or a morning coat.
With the addition of a detachable fur collar or lapels and matte silk cuffs, it becomes a very special evening overcoat.
A contrasting velvet collar looks particularly dapper, perfect for an old-money look.
If you are looking for a coat suitable for almost all occasions, a Paletot coat made of flannel or tweed in charcoal or navy might be the best choice.
For example, a plain dark grey and blue tweed paletot can be worn over a plaid tweed suit as well as with a business suit or evening wear, and I am sure the wearer will always look quite well put together.
A Shot History of the Paletot Overcoat and Its Variations
The term originally derives from the word Palla, which was a kind of Roman greatcoat.
Later, the Spanish invented a garment called the Palletoque, similar to a frock coat with vertical folds.
During the eighteenth century, the French developed the word paletot as an umbrella term for various overcoats.
In the mid-19th century, a paletot was considered to be a waisted or at least slightly waisted overcoat with certain peculiarities regarding its cut.
Many paletots resembled a frock coat and could be worn without a vest-like undercoat. In detail, the features were as follows:
Paletots generally had no waist seam, although some had one in the front only, which was placed below the waist level.
Often, a back seam or a back vent was non-existent, but if present, the vent was quite short.
A paletot always showed some form of side seams, while side pleats were usually absent.
A fly sometimes fastened the fronts, and occasionally, buttons reached down to the hem of the topcoat.
The number of pockets on a paletot varied, but they were generally found outside and tailored as flap or slip pockets.
The Paletot-Sac was a short version of the regular paletot with no waist suppression, hence the name.
Sometimes, it featured a lined hood instead of a collar and it was generally single-breasted.
Another variety of the paletot was the Twine, as the French call it, or English Wrap, which was often double-breasted and resembled a loose Chesterfield.
By the end of the nineteenth century, the term evolved to include only overcoats worn in town.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, the British considered a paletot to be any topcoat with waist suppression, while Americans defined it as an ankle-length topcoat, seam-waisted, and with a flared silhouette.
In the 1920s, the term Chesterfield arose, a single-breasted overcoat with a hidden fly front.
In Europe, the term paletot was used to describe a very special kind of double-breasted top coat to distinguish between the different overcoat types.
Paletot Overcoat FAQs
What is the difference between a Guards coat and a Paletot overcoat?
The Guards coat is simply a paletot variation with a belted back and a 6×3 configuration.
The Paletot has a wide spectrum of uses and is the ideal companion for several occasions compared to the Guards coat.
