With a wink to its hedonistic heyday and both feet firmly planted in the now, Creative Director Francesca Murri is ushering Fiorucci into a bold new era. Sitting down with Wonderland, she reflects on her lifelong connection to the brand, the thrill and turmoil of relaunching it from scratch, and its electric ties to art and music.
“It’s not so much about referencing specific products, but more about embracing the spirit and attitude—the way Fiorucci approached fashion as a lifestyle brand.”
Handwritten notes from sixteen-year-old sleazy boys. Tramp stamp tattoo collages. A ragged bandana, Steven Tyler’s headshot, Hawaiian postcards, a battered guitar pick. And, naturally, a Fiorucci poster. These are fragments from memory lane – my older sister’s wardrobe door, plastered over in the room we shared for the first decade of my life. But just as easily, they could be pinned to a moodboard in Francesca Murri’s Milanese Fiorucci HQ.
Since stepping into the Creative Director seat in 2023, following the brand’s acquisition by Swiss-Italian investor Dona Bertarelli, Murri has been quietly fuelling a resurgence. There’s something deeply nostalgic, yet deliciously rebellious, about the Fiorucci spirit. And over the past two years, she’s proven herself a master of its language. From archive deep dives to the occasional hero piece rehash, she’s been meticulously crafting a narrative of her own — rooted in the kind of creative chaos that made Fiorucci so revolutionary to begin with.
Founded in Milan’s Galleria Passarella in the late ’60s by Elio Fiorucci, the label quickly became a global sensation, its legendary New York store famously dubbed the “daytime Studio 54” by Andy Warhol. A staple among the cool crowds, the Italian house – and its iconic cherubs – etched itself into the memories of ’70s, ’80s and ’90s kids alike. But that, some might argue, was only the beginning. Now, Murri is ready to reclaim Fiorucci’s seat at the cultural table.
What are your first memories of Fiorucci, and how did they shape your expectations and vision before stepping into the role as CD?
My memories of Fiorucci are definitely of a brand that felt ‘different’—modern, fun, ironic, provocative, and democratic. A brand that was playing its own game at the time. That legacy sets the tone—and it’s a big responsibility to carry forward.
When you became Creative Director, what was your initial vision for the brand? Two years in, has that vision evolved or are you still chasing the same goals?
At the beginning, I studied the archive to find a connection between my own vision and the brand’s original spirit—something that would allow me to be as authentic as possible. I was looking for elements that could still feel relevant today, to tell a new story around Fiorucci and speak to a new generation—to a completely new era. I wanted to respect the brand’s history while giving it a contemporary voice, just as it had in its own time.
My mission has always been to play with contrasts, just like in the brand’s DNA: showy yet angelic, democratic yet snobbish, pop yet sensual. I also believe in engaging all five senses to celebrate the pleasure of life—that was always part of Fiorucci’s magic.
It was a truly innovative brand, one that built a real community and had a major influence on the fashion system. Today, that approach isn’t new anymore—so my focus is on being deeply authentic in the storytelling, honest with the customer, and building something spontaneous and real, just as it once was.
How do your roots in Italian craftsmanship and heritage influence Fiorucci’s DNA today?
I’ve always worked with a strong focus on high-quality manufacturing. My experiences have been very diverse, and that variety has helped me bring a more elevated chapter to Fiorucci from a product perspective.
Who is the Fiorucci woman in 2025? And how has the brand’s customer profile shifted since you took the reins?
A woman with personality, confident in herself. Someone who wants to play with her wardrobe—creative and ironic. There’s no specific age; it’s more of a Fiorucci state of mind.
What have been the biggest challenges you’ve faced as Creative Director so far, and what moments are you most proud of?
The biggest challenge has been relaunching a brand from the ground up with limited resources—a true startup, with fewer tools at our disposal. I’m very proud of what we’ve achieved, because it’s not easy to bring new energy to a brand known for being different, provocative, and ahead of its time—a brand that has been widely imitated by big fashion houses with much larger budgets. I had to rely on creativity, ideas, and irony to spark new conversations and stay true to Fiorucci’s spirit.
We’re often judged by products and shows, but Fiorucci has always aimed to be something else—to play an outsider role and bring an authentic point of view. For me, it’s about speaking to people directly, creating a brand that radiates positive energy and makes people feel good.
I’m especially proud that in just a year and a half, with a small team and no big budget, we’ve already started to become ‘something.’ We’ve built strong connections with the art world through The Community Paris and explored music with Gatto Verde. We’ve launched meaningful collaborations and created Circolo UltraFiorucci—a space to bring together creatives and collaborate in ways that reflect our values. For Fiorucci, this connection to art and music is essential. It’s about creating something sensorial, authentic, full of memory, color, and irony.
How much does Fiorucci’s archive influence the work you’re doing now? Do you find yourself returning to it often?
The archive inspires me mainly through its graphics, and I often revisit the brand’s story to capture a tone of voice that’s rooted in its past. It’s not so much about referencing specific products, but more about embracing the spirit and attitude—the way Fiorucci approached fashion as a lifestyle brand.
How do you balance honouring Fiorucci’s playful, rebellious legacy while pushing the brand into a new era?
I always try to spark a reflection on our life journey—what we create is a direct expression of who we are. That’s my way of being provocative. For me, the show becomes a kind of theater—a space to play with vision and connect with the present moment, always in respect of the brand’s DNA. Fiorucci aims to have an editorial approach, one that reflects what’s happening around us. I constantly play with contrasts, surrealism, and irony— that’s where the spirit of Fiorucci truly lives.
Can you tell us about a specific piece or moment from Fiorucci’s history that continues to inspire you?
The golden age of Fiorucci, when its approach to fashion was so innovative and modern, continues to inspire me. If I had to choose a masterpiece, it would be the Love Boots, which we revisited for the FW25 show.
FW25: What story are you telling with this collection?
The first show was inspired by dreams, with a digital alarm clock from the archives ringing in Fiorucci’s awakening—are we living in a dream? Is the dream the actual reality?This idea was reflected in the looks, which aimed to capture the feeling of just waking up, wearing whatever comes to mind, with messy hair.
For the Fall Winter 25 show, my focus shifted to the most meaningful moments in life— those times when we’re happiest, like on vacation, a reflection on the moments in life when we are light hearted, like in youth or mature age. I wanted to play with time, making it feel not linear but circular… a Fiorucci person likes to wear a Hawaiian shirt in winter.
How do you measure success in this chapter of the brand? What matters most to you?
For me, success in this chapter of the brand is measured by cultural relevance— specifically, our ability to resonate with the next generation. It’s about creating a space where they feel inspired, connected, and understood. It’s about fostering a community that sees Fiorucci as a reflection of their own values. What matters most is that we stay authentic to the brand’s spirit while evolving with the times, always keeping that sense of freedom, playfulness, and boldness that defines Fiorucci.
Looking ahead, what can we expect in September 2025? Any exciting plans on the horizon?
Looking ahead to 2025, we have some exciting things in the works. We’re planning a show in June that will showcase the next chapter of Fiorucci’s evolution. In addition, we’re continuing to expand the Circolo UltraFiorucci projects—creating opportunities to connect with even more communities. We want to keep pushing boundaries, blending fashion with art and culture in ways that surprise and inspire our audience.
Words – Sofia Ferreira
Content shared from www.wonderlandmagazine.com.
