By undertaking the prowess of London’s history, Riccardo Tisci reenvisions Burberry’s identity in British fashion.
By undertaking the prowess of London’s history, Riccardo Tisci reenvisions Burberry’s identity in British fashion.
Guests stood circled Burberry silver-ware clad tables, pressed to be at the front of spectacle that disregarded the concept of the front row guest. Held in London’s Central Hall, Westminister Riccardo Tisci enforced a togetherness in the spectacle, which did not allow a divide between spectator and model.
The only true deviation from this unification was the models’ entrance as they descended from a wood amphitheater. “I wanted this collection to convey that intensity of feeling and to celebrate not only coming together,” said Tisci in a press statement, “but the city in which we come together today; the city in which Burberry grew and established a family.” Climbing up on tables, models posed as the main course for a dinner set by porcelain and crystal, as if hoping to feed the city of London. This unification was clad in the signature of trenches and Burberry tartans, padded puffers, and tartan dresses.
Menswear and womenswear received the same treatment, placing British fashion (and therefore Britishness) as not fixed in one identity; Burberry will never be able to escape its heritage as a supplier of modern takes on posh, the influence showing in the inclusion of Tisci’s iteration of an equestrian helmet and appropriations of waxed Barbour jackets.
There were selects of the subcultures of London in patchwork-covered puffer jackets and tattoo-like mesh lined with sobering odes. There were strapless gowns made from trench coats, cardigans striped with embellished brooches, and quilted jackets wrapped by fur mantles. It was all truly British.
As a celebration of Burberry’s home of London for over 130 years, Tisci remains focused on the future of the brand’s influence in the country, upholding the fact that its roots will always be influenced by its home base and the community that it caters to. For now, Burberry seems to be able to push through, opening itself to both sustainability in Fall/Winter 2022’s certification as carbon neutral, as well as their break into streetwear through the release of the Supreme x Burberry collection on March 10th.
Watch the video below to see the full collection
Credits: Images courtesy of Burberry.
