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The designer communicates that fashion can offer support in times of need.

The designer communicates that fashion can offer support in times of need.

Following his January men’s show where strobe lamp helmets were backed by a song that deliriously, a sobering effect was felt by the fragrance of his Aesop collaboration dispensed through fog machines. Said in his press release, “Upon recent listening, the exclusive remix from Eprom I had planned three months ago felt too harsh and ominous for the current moment, so at last, I substituted with [Gustav] Mahler’s 5th Symphony.” 

“Our current condition” is a meeting point for Owens, a consideration that he took upon himself since the pandemic, and now the conflict Ukraine. How could a designer offer mediation terms for those who feel unsupportive or even helpless by continuing to participate in fashion weeks? Owens offers a conciliation. 

Dusty sequined gowns opened the collection, draped and pluming at shoulder and hip. Cropped jackets over bias-cut skirts appear in various colors, the same peachy oranges that appeared in menswear.  Puffer jackets cut with high slits that dragged like a train exposed collapsing leather gloves, bubble-shaped bombers paired with his Platform Spartan boots. 

While many of the garments seemed to be enveloping, it did not take away from the beauty of the alien-like sinuosity of the silhouettes if the framing of sharp shoulders in the gowns and shearlings did not indicate so. That may be the conciliation of it all: the comfort in always returning to beauty. Rick Owens has no difficulty in executing that.

Watch the full show below: 

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