Socks may be a small, sometimes invisible part of an outfit, but like a mosquito in the dark, a bad sock can be very annoying and make things extremely uncomfortable. From socks that fall down and slip beneath your heel, to those that are too rough or too thin, the result is the same: blisters and difficulty walking. It is very hard to feel composed when your socks are failing your feet.
But going without is a recipe for ruining your shoes. “Sweat is full of bacteria,” says Julia Kelly, owner of The Sockery. “So to keep your sneakers smelling fresh, always wear socks … of any kind.”
Generally, socks fall into three categories: sport, business and fashion. According to Kelly the purpose of the sock should dictate the blend of materials and weave.
“Socks nowadays are woven to ensure they are fit for purpose – for example sport, hiking or business wear – and usually involve a blend of a number of yarns,” she says. “Most manufacturers will blend the yarns to create the correct ‘recipe’ for the intended use.”
For sport
Giuliano Pietrolungo, production manager at Compuknit Hosiery, says for most people, sports-standard ribbed socks made of a cotton lycra blend with terry cushioning on the soles are a good choice.
Kelly suggests looking for moisture-wicking fibres including wool or polyester blends such as CoolMax. And to avoid 100% cotton socks “as they tend to hold moisture and dry slowly, which is a perfect recipe for blisters”.
Depending on how serious you are about the activity you’re doing, different sports socks have different performance attributes. For elite or higher-level professional sport, Pietrolungo says “compression socks are available that hold on to the foot and leg better with intentional compression and more technical fibres”.
Kelly says some runners favour toe socks because they separate the toes, preventing them from rubbing.
For everyday wear
When choosing socks for everyday wear, generally speaking, natural fibres will be more comfortable. With the right weave, blend and construction, they will also be more durable.
Pietrolungo says natural fibres are best because they are breathable while also providing insulation. He says synthetic yarns are often used to improve the durability of the sock but if the concentration of synthetics is too high, it will compromise comfort.
Everyone’s feet are different, so the ideal blend will partly come down to personal preference. But if you have a pair of socks that leave your feet particularly sweaty, it is worth noting their fabric composition and opting for a higher percentage of natural fibres next time.
“Wool socks provide great comfort year-round and as wool is an insulator, they are warm in winter and cool in summer,” Kelly says. “Most quality wool socks are now made from merino wool and so do not prickle or itch as socks did in the past.”
Wool socks also have odour resistance. “They don’t need to be washed after every wear,” Kelly says. “They can be air-dried which can help in the longevity of a sock and be useful if away on a short trip.” But this comes at a price, as merino socks tend to be more expensive than other blends.
When choosing cotton socks, Pietrolungo says look for mercerised cotton (distinguishable by a slight sheen) because “it has a lovely soft delicate feel”.
Socks that stay up
“There are a few factors that contribute to the sock’s ability to stay up on a leg but, unfortunately, none of these are permanent,” says Pietrolungo. “The amount of elastic in the top of the sock and leg is the biggest contributor.”
To test this, he says, “give the leg [of the sock] a stretch from the inside [to get] a good indication as to how well it will hold. But nothing can stop gravity doing what it does over time.”
Longer socks are also more likely to have staying power, Kelly says. “Generally, the sock most likely to stay up is one that fits well and goes over the calf.”
Durability is in the details
One way to ensure durability is through the thickness of the sock, although this needs to be balanced with comfort. “The gauge of the knitting machine and, consequently, the weight of the yarn contribute to the durability,” Pietrolungo says. This can be assessed by rubbing the material between your fingers and visually inspecting the width and density of the yarn and weave.
Another thing to look out for is additional padding. If you are on your feet all day, you will likely want a sock that is padded along the sole of the foot. Socks with a reinforced toe and heel should also be more durable “as these are the parts of the sock that experience the most wear”, Kelly says.
There are also socks that use different fibres for different parts of the sock to maximise durability. “Humphrey Law, an Australian manufacturer, weaves a sock with wool on the inside for comfort and nylon on the outer layers to provide extra abrasion and wear resistance.”
While high-quality socks are likely to be more durable over time, how you wear and care for them also makes a difference, Kelly says. To give your socks a fighting chance, keep your toenails trimmed, wash your feet before you put your socks on, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions when you launder them.