Whether included in your balayage, a root touch-up, or all on its own — the money piece is a time-saving highlight trend that instantly brightens up your client’s color. Adding a bright pop of lightness around the face adds dimension and interest to any style. The key to creating this look? It’s all about the sectioning, having a plan, and pairing it with the necessary products. If you’re deciding between foils and a freehand method, read on for a few tips for each!
The Freehand Method
Although freehand methods and open-air techniques are bespoke, tailoring a money-piece to your client requires a bit of foresight. Begin by asking your clients questions about their styling preferences, if they have plans for a new haircut and what their daily routine looks like. This will help you gauge the placement and amount of sections needed.
The products:
Once your style is set, mix Wella Professionals Blondor Freelights + Wella Professionals Blondor Freelights Developer 30 Vol. (9%). This lightener was designed specifically for balayage and open-air techniques.
Techniques and tips:
- You’ll want to concentrate your application on the section around the face and below the crown area. Section out a horseshoe section at the top of the head, leaving out the bang area and clip away for control.
- Use zig-zag partings and backcombing techniques to create a soft transition.
- After painting sections, apply toner throughout the hair to ensure an even tone and added shine and brilliance.
The Foil Method
Foils can be a great option for darker levels or single-process clients. You’ll only need a few foils around the face to easily add a transition. Depending on your client and the desired look, consider adding two foils in a mohawk section in the bang area and a few foils diagonally back from the temple to the ear area.
The products:
We suggest utilizing Wella Professionals BlondorPlex + Wella Professionals Welloxon Perfect 20 Vol. (6%). This is an excellent combination because the face frame area is often styled, leading to more susceptibility to an already delicate area.
Techniques and tips:
- To ensure a soft transition, use a teasylight/babylight method with backcombing and delicate weaving if necessary.
- By creating smaller, finer weaves in the same section you’ll be able to get the pop of color needed without a harsh transition line.
- Once lightened, be sure to complete the treatment with Wella Professionals Wellaplex No. 2 Bond Stabilizer to stabilize the hair’s bonds, tone and style as desired!
