Instead Bolton needed to find a unifying key that could act as a cipher to unlock our understanding of Lagerfeld’s almost outrageously enormous span and output. And he found the beginnings of it at Lagerfeld’s memorial service at the Grand Palais in 2019. “The speakers included some of the premiers he had worked with for years. He had a premier at Karl Lagerfeld who had also been with him at Chloe, and premiers at Chanel and Fendi—and these were the people he worked most closely with to translate his design into clothing. And they spoke of him with such love.”
This led Bolton to that key: Lagerfeld’s sketches. “He would sketch everything. He would always say that he could draw before he could talk or walk. In many ways it was his primary form of communication, whether he was delivering them by fax machine or iPhone. So at its heart the exhibition will look at the evolution of Karl’s two dimensional drawings into three dimensional garments. And what’s fascinating to have discovered: I always thought that his drawings were very spontaneous and almost impressionistic. But they were in truth extremely precise, almost mathematical. We couldn’t see it because we are not trained, but his premiers knew down to the millimeter what each line meant. It was almost a secret code, a language shared between him and those premiers, that only they could fully decipher.”
Around 150 original looks—from all the houses he served, as well as his own line—will be presented in the Met alongside their respective original sketches. Furthermore video interviews with his respective premiers, shot by the great Loïc Prigent, will enable visitors to crack that secret Lagerfeld code. The exhibition’s interior has been designed by the architect Tadao Ando. Bolton said that Ando once designed a house for Lagerfeld, which was never realized: some of its elements will be brought to life in A Line of Beauty.
The chief sponsor of the exhibition will be Chanel while major support will further be provided by Fendi. Karl Lagerfeld the fashion brand and Condé Nast will add additional funding.
Max Hollein, Marina Kellen French Director of The Met, said in a release: “Karl Lagerfeld was one of the most captivating, prolific, and recognizable forces in fashion and culture, known as much for his extraordinary designs and tireless creative output as for his legendary persona. This immersive exhibition will unpack his singular artistic practice, inviting the public to experience an essential part of Lagerfeld’s boundless imagination and passion for innovation.”
Presented at The Met Fifth Avenue in the Tisch Gallery, Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty will be on view from May 5 through July 16 next year. This will follow the Met Gala, which will fall on May 1.
This post was originally published in Vogue.
