Fishcakes have fallen off the menu in recent years, which is a shame, because they’re a delicious way to make what is, rightly, a pricey ingredient go a lot further. Based on one of the greatest of culinary love stories, fish and potatoes, they’re almost infinitely adaptable to suit both your audience and what you have available, so feel free to play around.
Prep 25 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 2
400g floury potatoes (eg, maris pipers)
Salt
250g fish (see step 3)
1 tbsp chopped chives
1 tbsp capers (see step 7)
2 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and finely chopped
1 egg, beaten
40g flour, for coating
100g dried breadcrumbs
A generous knob of butter
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 Prepare the potatoes
Peel the potatoes, then cut them into evenly sized chunks. Floury potatoes are best here, because waxy new potatoes will struggle to hold together.
Sweet potato will also work, either alone or in combination with the white variety, and you could also add about 75g broccoli, broken into small florets, peas or finely diced carrot to the potato pot towards the end of cooking.
2 Boil and crush the spuds
Put the potatoes in a large pan with a generous shake of salt and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer until tender, but not mushy.
Drain, return briefly to the hot pan to dry off, then roughly crush so they’re a mixture of mash and larger lumps.
3 Choose your fish
You can use just about any fish you like here, though I think a mixture is nicest – something smoked, something white and something oily, for example.
Fish pie mix will do, while fishmongers are often delighted to get rid of scraps for a knock-down price. Or go down the seafood route – crab works especially well; larger prawns should be chopped.
4 Or use frozen or tinned
Defrost frozen fish or seafood before use, and drain anything tinned. If it’s in water, you can get rid of that (or add it to pet food, as long as it isn’t brined), but if it’s in oil, you might like to mix some of it into the cakes to flavour them later, so keep it for the time being.
5 Poach any uncooked fish
Put any fresh or defrosted fish in a pan of water, bring up to a simmer, then turn the heat right down and cook gently for three to five minutes, depending on the size of the fillets, until the skin, if any, pulls off easily and the flesh is just beginning to break into flakes – remember, you’ll be cooking it a second time later.
6 Flake the fish
Drain thoroughly, remove the skin if necessary (I give this to the dog) and set aside to cool. Break into large flakes and add to the crushed potatoes. If using raw prawns, shell and briefly fry them in a little oil until just pink, before adding. And if you’re using tinned or otherwise ready-cooked fish or seafood, add it at this stage.
7 Add the flavourings and shape
Stir in the chives, capers and anchovies (or seasoning of your choice, such as chopped dill pickles and spring onions, or chopped green chilli, grated ginger and mustard seeds).
Season lightly, and mix gently, adding enough beaten egg just to bring it all together. Use your hands to form the mix into four large cakes or six smaller ones.
8 Flour, breadcrumb and chill
Put the remaining egg in a shallow bowl, and tip the flour and breadcrumbs on to separate saucers.
Dip each fishcake in the flour, then the beaten egg and finally the breadcrumbs, until thoroughly coated. Chill for at least half an hour (and up to 24 hours) to firm up.
9 Fry until golden
Put the butter and oil in a frying pan on a medium-high heat and, once it’s hot and the foam has subsided, lay in the fishcakes, in batches if the pan is small, and cook for five minutes until golden and well crusted underneath. Carefully flip it over, repeat on the other side, then eat immediately.
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