Crystals and corsets reign supreme in the designer’s ninth collection
Crystals and corsets reign supreme in the designer’s ninth collection
For Jackson Wiederhoeft, fashion and live performance are one of the same–seemingly entrapped in a symbiotic relationship where one feeds and thrives off the other. Previous collections from the Parsons School of Design graduate often combine the sophistication of fashion with the vitality of live performance. And lucky for us, their Fall 2023 collection was no different. Housed in St. Patrick’s Youth Center, a historied community hub for children and young adults, the auditorium-like space radiated with a comforting aura. The type you might find after school, during drama or dance rehearsals–fitting for the theatrical, and whimsical nature of their designs.
This season, Wiederhoeft titled their collection, “EURYDICE,” an homage of sorts to the popular character in Greek mythology. Eurydice is best known for being brought back from the dead, after her husband, Orpheus, softened the hearts of Hades and Persephone through his enchanting songs. These mythological influences could be seen throughout the collection–most obvious, perhaps, in looks two, three, and four where three models wore identical boat neck dresses in different colors paired with matching gloves–seemingly a nod to the Fates, or Moirai, of Greek mythology.
All literary significances aside–at face value, Wiederhoeft’s designs are beautiful just to look at. The eye moves between the slinky silhouettes to the careful craftsmanship and intricate beading and back again to the silhouette. As someone who designed for Thom Browne for three years, Wiederhoeft’s technical finesse is the thread that weaves the whole show together. Especially, for this season’s opening look in which a model draped in a white taffeta gown spun around the space. Underneath a cream pipestem corset sat snug.
Also consistent with Wiederhoeft’s previous collection is the frank disregard for traditional gender rules. This season, after having entered the bridal space a few years ago, the designer introduced three new bridal looks. And they were refreshing in every sense–silhouette, texture, and even down to who they were made for. Featuring their signature whimsy and playfulness, these looks pushed the boundaries of what bridalwear can look like–and that message itself was a welcome call.
