Pierpaolo Piccioli announced his departure from Valentino in March. Here, our ode to the visionary designer and one of his final acts of innovation at the maison: three-dimensional cut-outs achieved through embroidery, seen at Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2024.
After a quarter of a century at Valentino, and eight years as the Roman maison’s sole creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli bids a fond farewell, leaving behind an illustrious legacy that successfully re-defined the 65-year-old heritage brand for the new age.
When he was not championing inclusivity and diversity through the models and celebrities he dressed, he was making remarkable strides in fashion with trailblazing feats that channelled romanticism with an edge. Who can forget the statement-making Autumn/Winter 22 collection that was devoted to a special shade of pink? Conceived in collaboration with the Pantone Color Institute, the bold hue christened Pink PP (representing Piccioli’s initials) gave Valentino, whose calling card had always been red, a powerful boost that kept the buzz going long after the show.
At the core of Piccioli’s distinct vision is artistic brilliance and a firm commitment to craftsmanship, particularly amplified in the new Altorilievo, meaning “high relief ”, technique that elevates this season’s collection. The effect is achieved through embroidery, used to create three-dimensional naturalistic forms that resemble paper cut-outs on the skin.
The patterns take the shape of Baroque foliage, fruit, flowers and animals, created on fabrics such as linen, piquet and crêpe couture, the house’s signature wool and silk blend. As cut-outs built around a woman’s body, the design imagines skin as fabric. The woman thus becomes an active participant in a garment that is Piccioli’s sublime emancipation of the female body.
If this leaves you wanting more, take heart. It’s unlikely that this is the last we’ll see of Piccioli, who is only 56. As the Italians would say, arrivederci! Goodbye until we meet again!
(Images: Valentino)
