A must-have in every man’s wardrobe, a well-styled blazer elevates your look and helps you exude confidence and sophistication.
However, only a few know that there are multiple types of blazers, let alone how to choose the correct one, how to button it, or style it to perfection.
This guide covers everything you need to know about blazers: single vs. double-breasted blazers, British vs. American vs. Italian silhouettes, and how to style blazers for a flawless look.
What is a Blazer?
A blazer is a single or double-breasted jacket made from serge, hopsack, worsted, wool flannel, fresco, or linen, with one to eight buttons on the front.
Blazer Origin
The blazer originates from the uniforms of the 19th-century British Royal Navy officers.
However, the term ‘blazer’ originated at the Cambridge University rowing club, which had bright red jackets, hence the fire-like blazing color.
As such, blazers have several stylistic variations designed to depict the garment’s historical roots or the wearer’s affiliation with a college, club, or sports team.
In such cases, blazers are adorned with crests, collar and pocket lines, and decorative buttons from pewter, brass, silver, mother of pearl, and gilt.
Different Types of Blazers
There are two main types of blazers: Single-breasted and double-breasted.
Each of these blazers comes in three different silhouettes: British, American, and Italian.
Choosing the right type of blazers depends on the occasion and the look you’re trying to achieve with your style.
Single-Breasted Blazers
Single-breasted blazers have up to five front buttons in one row and are more suitable for business-casual events.
Single-breasted blazers are ideal for Business-casual occasions such as casual office settings (paired with chinos or dress pants), brunch or weekend outings with friends, outdoor events, or picnics, and date nights or casual social gatherings.
Double-Breasted Blazers
Double-breasted blazers fold over at the front and have two columns of up to four buttons each, making them more suitable for formal events.
Double-breasted blazers are most suitable for formal occasions such as weddings (as a guest or part of the wedding party), formal business meetings or conferences, upscale social events or galas, and cocktail parties or formal dinners.
Blazer Buttoning Rules
According to the blazer dressing etiquette, each type (single-breasted, double-breasted, with one, two, or eight buttons, has its own buttoning rules, standing or sitting.
Buttoning a One-button Single-breasted Blazer
Standing rule – You can wear it with the button done or undone.
Sitting rule – Always undone.
Buttoning a Two-button Single-breasted Blazer
Always close only the top button.
Buttoning a Three-button Single-breasted Blazer
The middle button should always be closed, while the top and bottom buttons are optional.
Buttoning a Double-Breasted Blazers
For a classic look, you must button all the buttons (excluding the decorative ones).
However, for a more relaxed look or sitting, you can only unbutton the bottom button.
Never wear a double-breasted blazer unbuttoned. It is a definitive no-no.
If you are wearing a two-button double-breasted blazer, always close that button, even when sitting
Sprezzatura and Breaking the Buttoning Rules
Breaking the buttoning rules without making a sartorial catastrophe requires a profound understanding of Sprezzatura.
For example, there are circumstances where wearing a double-breasted blazer unbuttoned adds to your style.
Unless you are King Charles III, we recommend consulting a professional stylist when applying Sprezzatura to your blazer game.
Blazing Styling Tips – Dos and Don’ts
Do
- The blazer’s shoulders should sit comfortably without divots or bunching.
- The sleeves must hit at the wrist bone, allowing a quarter to a half-inch of shirt cuff to show.
- The silhouette must skim the body without being too tight, loose, short, or long.
- Experiment with ties, pocket squares, belts, and watches to create unique looks.
Don’t
- Avoid wearing a blazer that is ill-fitting, dirty, or ripped.
- Refrain from pairing the blazer with overly casual clothing.
- Steer clear of flashy accessories that can detract from the timeless elegance of the blazer.
The Difference Between Blazer, Tailored Jacket, and Sports Coat
Blazers, tailored jackets, and sports coats have identical constructs.
They all originate from the same Royal Navy uniform, so the only differences are minor, such as the fabric, buttons, motifs, etc.
For example, suit jackets, part of a tailed suit, have matching pants and are worn only in formal contexts, while blazers don’t have matching pants and can be worn in both formal and business-casual contexts, and sports coats are for more casual occasions.
Blazers, most popular in navy and dark blue, have metallic buttons with nautical motifs and are worn without matching pants. Blazers are the closest, stylistically, to the original British Navy uniform.
Tailored jackets have variable lapel styles and can be worn either separately or with matching trousers from the same cloth and pattern as the jacket.
Sport coats, also known as sports jackets or smart casual lounge jackets, are adorned with club crests, have a loser design, and are worn without matching trousers for sporting purposes.
