We join up with the founder of eponymous European handbag brand, Merryl Tielman, as they launch into the US.
Designed in vibrant Amsterdam and meticulously crafted in artisanal Italy, Merryl Tielman’s bags epitomise timeless elegance and cutting-edge ingenuity, offering a wide range of sleek, sophisticated silhouettes. Founded in Amsterdam and using Italy’s unmatched legacy of artistry and craftsmanship, each bag is intricately fashioned from premium, vegetable-tanned leather. The result? Collections that are not only visually stunning but also highly durable and practical.
Merryl’s design philosophy is undeniably unique. To her, a bag is far more than a mere accessory—it’s a sculptural masterpiece. Every design begins with an inspired shape, whether from the curve of an ashtray, the edge of a scrap of paper, or the shadow of an object. These enigmatic forms are then carefully transformed into striking, functional pieces.
We had the pleasure of connecting with Merryl during a pivotal phase of her brand’s evolution, as she ventures into the expansive US market. This exciting step comes after a significant achievement: three custom handbag designs were recently showcased at Elena Velez’s acclaimed NYFW show. During our chat, Merryl shared her thoughts on transitioning from the intimate setting of the Netherlands to the vastness of the US, her deeply personal approach to handbag design, and how paper models serve as the creative foundation for her visionary creations.
Read the interview…
What excites you most about introducing Merryl Tielman to the US market?
I am from a small country, if you are in good shape, you can cross all of the Netherlands by bike in one day. America has more than one time zone, the number of people you can reach is beyond comprehension.
Me and my partner very much have a DIY approach, but a year ago we teamed up with a soulmate who has a lot of know-how. Since then things are happening fast. Our bags are now for sale in some very nice, handpicked stores. Yet we are still very unknown, so the fact that we now have this huge window is thrilling.
Can you share more about how your background in Audiovisual Art influences your approach to handbag design?
Audiovisual art is a very immaterial medium. It is not something that people buy and take home with them. There never was a reason to consider saleability. Also, when I design a bag, I first of all think of what I want myself. Customers are, more or less, an afterthought. But don’t get me wrong, I find it very rewarding if people are eager to own my bags!
Perhaps my past in art is more obvious in the visuals we use. Krista van der Niet – the photographer who did our latest campaign shoot – has the same background. Her pictures totally capture the surreal atmosphere I was after.
As a matter of fact, I started with fashion, but found it too limited a medium, so I switched to Audiovisual Art. Now I think I need this limitation in order to not get entangled in my own ideas.
Could you walk us through your creative process? How do you go from your initial inspiration to a fully realised design?
I can get inspiration from anything. Just a shape that I like. It can be an iconic building or a cigarette lighter. I don’t do a ton of sketching. I make paper models, lots of them. They pile up in my room. I adjust and stare at them for days, weeks, struggling to find a way for an interesting shape to make sense as a bag. In the end I want it to look interesting but effortless.
When I am happy with the result I make a sample in leather. I have to be sure that it is possible to execute the design before I hand it over to the factory in Italy.
How important is the choice of materials and the location of production in maintaining the brand’s integrity and quality?
Essential. My designs call for a construction that is out of the ordinary. Our producer took us on board because my bags were like nothing he had ever seen before. He works for the biggest brands in the business, still every new Merryl Tielman bag gives him a headache because they are so difficult to make. But he takes the challenge gladly!
His life would be much easier if I did not use vegetable tanned leather, which is harder to work with, but I am just in love with this material. It is so expressive and alive compared to other leather.
How do you envision the brand growing in the US and Europe over the next few years?
I’ve never had a preconceived picture of a goal that lies ahead and the road that leads to it. When I first started, a couple of years ago, I thought I would be making every bag myself, at home in Amsterdam. I had no idea where and how I was going to sell them. And here I am now, talking to Wonderland magazine about launching the brand in the US. Hopefully things will keep developing in that direction, I am open to anything.
Congratulations on your feature in Elena Velez’s upcoming NYFW show! How did this collaboration come around and what attracted you to Elena’s work?
Thank you, it’s our first collaboration ever, we are super excited.
This soulmate I just mentioned works with Elena. He is very good at bringing people together. I think Elena and I are both fascinated by craftsmanship, and I like her guts. I thought we might make an interesting combination as, at first sight, we express ourselves in different languages. Mine is about strict, clean lines and hers is more about the beauty in imperfection. But at heart I think we are both radical punks who don’t like bullshit.
Angelo Bag (left), Barbara Bag (right)
Do you find Amsterdam’s culture influences your work?
Not really. Although the image was a bit romanticized, Amsterdam used to be a place for free-thinking spirits. But over the years it has been marketed quite successfully and exploited as if it were an amusement park. Much of the fringes and counterculture that made the city interesting, gradually disappeared. The place is losing its edge. It’s pretty worrying.
What’s next for Merryl Tielman? Are there any new collections, materials or design innovations that you can share?
For some people my bags are a bit rigid, so I am adding bags to the collection that are a bit softer, more ‘body friendly’. Without losing my soul and identity, the trap that Amsterdam threatens to fall into.
