For decades, Cifonelli has been synonymous with the pinnacle of sartorial craftsmanship, often whispered about in hushed tones by connoisseurs of fine menswear.
But with prices starting at €6,700 for a two-piece bespoke suit and soaring well beyond €8,500 for more elaborate creations, those new to the high-end sartorial world wonder: are Cifonelli suits worth their eye-watering price tags?
As we have chronicled the ebbs and flows of men’s fashion and we’ve had the privilege of observing Cifonelli’s journey from a respected Parisian tailor to a global icon of luxury, we decided to explore the Cifonelli phenomenon, peeling back the layers of mystique to answer this burning question.
What Makes Cifonelli Suits Unique?
Cifonelli’s Rich Heritage
To understand Cifonelli’s worth, you must first appreciate its rich heritage.
Founded in 1880 by Giuseppe Cifonelli, an Italian immigrant in Rome, the house quickly gained a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship.
Giuseppe’s son, Arturo Cifonelli, moved the business to Paris in 1936, where it flourished, becoming one of the ‘Big Five’ Parisian tailors alongside names like Camps de Luca and Smalto.
Fourth-generation cousins Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli continue this legacy today, blending time-honoured techniques with contemporary flair.
Cifonelli’s unbroken lineage of expertise is rare in today’s fast-paced fashion world, contributing significantly to Cifonelli’s prestige and, consequently, its price point.
Cifonelli Signature Shoulder
The most distinctive feature of a Cifonelli suit is its iconic shoulder.
Unlike the sharp, padded shoulders of English tailoring or Neapolitan jackets’ soft, natural shoulders, Cifonelli’s creation is a marvel of engineering.
The shoulder extends slightly beyond the natural shoulder line, with a subtle curve that creates an elegant, masculine silhouette.
Cifonelli’s unique construction involves extending the shoulder pad into the sleeve head and adding extra wadding, resulting in a distinctive roll at the top of the sleeve.
Karl Lagerfeld famously claimed he could recognise a Cifonelli shoulder from 100 metres away, a testament to its uniqueness.
The shoulder pad is built by hand using two layers of canvas and two of felt, a level of detail rarely seen in modern tailoring.
Cifonelli’s shoulder construction allows for a greater range of motion, combining style with functionality in a way that justifies its premium.
Handcraftsmanship and Attention to Detail
Cifonelli’s reputation for meticulous handwork is legendary in tailoring circles.
Each suit requires over 80 hours of handwork, with certain operations, like creating the signature shoulder, demanding exceptional skill.
The house is renowned for its raised ‘Milanese’ buttonhole, a detail that requires painstaking precision to execute perfectly.
Even hidden elements, like the attachment of the lining, receive the same level of attention as visible parts.
For instance, the initial sewing of the lining is done with the same precision as the top stitching that finishes it off, creating a perfect line of handwork inside the garment that will never be seen.
Cifonelli’s commitment to quality extends to every aspect of the garment, from the hand-padded chest canvas to the perfectly aligned patterns at the seams.
Such dedication to craft is increasingly rare and undoubtedly contributes to Cifonelli’s hefty price tag.
Innovative Bespoke Designs
While Cifonelli respects tradition, it’s far from stuck in the past.
Lorenzo Cifonelli, in particular, has been instrumental in pushing the boundaries of classic tailoring.
The house regularly introduces innovative jacket designs that blend traditional techniques with contemporary aesthetics.
For example, the ‘Qilian’ jacket, made of yak wool harvested from Tibetan plateaus and woven in fair trade workshops, showcases Cifonelli’s commitment to innovation and ethical sourcing.
With its ingenious 14 pockets, the ‘Travel’ jacket demonstrates how Cifonelli marries functionality with style.
Other notable designs include the ‘Cortina’ jacket with its technical four-button closure and the ‘Nara’ jacket featuring a unique hybrid peak-notch lapel.
Cifonelli’s blend of tradition and innovation allows the brand to command premium prices from clients who desire timeless elegance and modern relevance.
Cifonelli Suit Value – Quality and Longevity
When assessing the worth of a Cifonelli suit, you must consider its longevity.
These garments are built to last, with many clients reporting that their suits remain in excellent condition after a decade or more of regular wear.
The use of high-quality materials, from the finest wools to luxurious cashmere, ensures that the fabric retains its shape and lustre over time.
For instance, a navy cashmere overcoat made by Cifonelli nine years ago still maintains its structural integrity, with no balding on the elbows or pocket edges.
The handcrafted construction allows for easier alterations, accommodating changes in the wearer’s physique over the years.
While the initial investment is substantial, the cost per wear over the lifetime of a Cifonelli suit can make it a more economical choice than cheaper, less durable alternatives.
Prestige and Recognition in Elite Circles
For many Cifonelli clients, the brand’s cachet is a significant part of its appeal.
Cifonelli suits are instantly recognised in high society circles, serving as a subtle yet powerful signal of the wearer’s discernment and success.
Cifonelli’s recognition factor can be particularly valuable in business and social settings where such nuances are appreciated.
However, it’s worth noting that this prestige comes at a literal and figurative price.
The close-fitting Cifonelli style, while undoubtedly elegant, can be less forgiving of fluctuations in weight or physique compared to more relaxed cuts.
If you are considering investing in a Cifonelli suit, consider whether this aspect aligns with your values, lifestyle, and long-term wardrobe strategy.
Unparalleled Fit and Comfort
The true test of a bespoke suit lies in its fit, and here Cifonelli excels.
The house’s approach to fitting is meticulous, often involving multiple fittings to achieve perfection.
Cifonelli’s expertise in pattern making allows them to create garments that not only fit flawlessly but also enhance the wearer’s physique.
The house’s renowned shoulder construction provides exceptional comfort and range of motion, crucial for those who wear suits regularly.
Cifonelli’s level of fit and comfort is difficult, if not impossible, to achieve with off-the-rack or even made-to-measure garments, making it a key consideration in assessing Cifonelli’s value proposition.
Versatility in Style
While Cifonelli is known for its distinctive house style, the bespoke nature of its service allows for considerable versatility.
You can choose from various fabrics and customise every suit aspect, from the lapel style to the number of pockets.
As such, Cifonelli suits can be tailored for various occasions and personal styles, from classic business attire to more fashion-forward evening wear.
For instance, Cifonelli offers options ranging from traditional business suits to innovative designs like their ‘Military’ jacket with its distinctive embroidered badge.
The ability to create a truly personal garment that can adapt to different contexts adds significant value, particularly for those with diverse wardrobing needs.
The Cifonelli Experience – From Fitting to Final Product
The journey of commissioning a Cifonelli suit is an experience that many clients find adds value beyond the final product.
The process typically begins with an initial consultation, where the client’s needs and preferences are discussed in detail.
Measurements are taken with exacting precision, often recorded on Cifonelli’s distinctive measurement sheets, a blend of art and science featuring a constellation of variously sized circles containing key measurements.
The first fitting is often done with a muslin trial suit, showcasing Cifonelli’s commitment to achieving the perfect fit.
Subsequent fittings allow for fine-tuning, with some garments undergoing multiple iterations before final approval.
This process, while time-consuming, ensures a level of personalisation and attention to detail that mass-produced garments cannot match.
For many, Cifonelli’s bespoke journey is as valuable as the suit, offering a glimpse into the rarefied world of high-end tailoring.
So, What Are You Paying For?
To truly assess whether Cifonelli suits are worth their price, one must understand what goes into that cost.
The most significant factor is labour – with over 80 hours of handwork going into each suit, the manhours alone justify a substantial portion of the price.
The materials used are also of the highest quality, sourced from the finest mills worldwide, such as W. Bills, Holland & Sherry, and Drapers.
Overheads are another consideration; Cifonelli’s prime location in Paris and its team of highly skilled artisans contribute to its operating costs.
The house employs four cutters and nearly 40 workers, all dedicated to maintaining the highest standards of craftsmanship.
Finally, there’s the intangible value of the Cifonelli name and the decades of expertise behind it.
While undeniably high, the price becomes more understandable when viewed in this context.
Cifonelli vs Similar Luxury Tailors
To truly gauge Cifonelli’s worth, it’s instructive to compare it with other high-end tailoring houses.
Regarding price, Cifonelli sits at the upper echelons of bespoke tailoring alongside names like Huntsman of Savile Row and Rubinacci of Naples.
However, each house has its unique strengths.
Huntsman, for instance, is renowned for its structured, military-inspired cut, while Rubinacci is celebrated for its soft, unstructured Neapolitan style.
Cifonelli’s distinctive shoulder and blend of structure and fluidity set it apart, offering a unique proposition for those who appreciate its aesthetic.
Regarding handwork and attention to detail, Cifonelli is on par with the best in the world.
However, some might argue that certain Neapolitan tailors offer similar levels of handcraftsmanship at slightly lower price points.
For example, Camps de Luca, another Parisian tailor, offers a similar level of craftsmanship but with a different house style and at a price point about 20% higher than Cifonelli.
Ultimately, the choice between these top-tier tailors often comes down to personal style preference and the specific strengths of each house.
Are Cifonelli Suits “Worth It”?
If you appreciate fine tailoring, have the means to invest in it, and wear the garment regularly, a Cifonelli suit can be worth every penny.
The combination of exceptional craftsmanship, unique style, perfect fit, and prestige offers a value proposition that’s hard to match.
However, it would be best if you considered several factors before taking the plunge on a Cifonelli suit.
Firstly, does the Cifonelli aesthetic align with your personal style and needs?
While the house can accommodate various preferences, its signature elements might not suit everyone.
The close-fitting style, while elegant, may not be ideal for those whose weight fluctuates significantly.
Secondly, do you have the lifestyle to justify such an investment?
A Cifonelli suit is best appreciated by those who wear suits regularly and in contexts where such quality is noticed and valued.
Thirdly, are you prepared for the time commitment involved in the bespoke process?
Creating a Cifonelli suit requires multiple fittings and several months of patience.
Lastly, consider your long-term wardrobe strategy.
A Cifonelli suit could be a cornerstone piece that elevates your entire wardrobe, but it requires careful consideration of how it fits into your overall style plan.
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