In styling parlance, ‘broken suit’ (or spezzato in Italian) is the art of masterfully mixing mismatched suits and pants to create a super stylish look.
Versatile and extremely chic, the mixing and matching of suits is part of contemporary fashion culture for young gentlemen.
From Gianni Agnelli to David Gandy, menswear style icons always experiment with broken suits as a new way of expressing one’s individuality.
The art of mismatching is the new secret of elegance, with an extra personal touch of creativity.
The broken suit allows one to combine colours and patterns with more freedom – compared to the rigour of business clothes: pastel colours, brown shoes, loafers, shirts, and so on, depending on the season.
Learning how to combine all these elements and avoid unpleasant mixes is crucial.
Pairing suit separates with different colour combinations needs a lot of attention and several styling attempts.
Consistency is also essential: you can’t match a winter jacket with summer trousers and vice versa.
Tone-on-tone is also possible, but it’s very risky! Even colour consistency is needed: bright colours go with bright colours, and light colours go with light colours.
Navy Blue Jacket with Grey Pants
Navy jackets and grey trousers combos are timeless classics. Wear them with a striped blue dress shirt for a brilliant look.
- Classic Navy Blue Suit Jacket
- Azure or Light Blue Striped Shirt
- Classic Grey Trousers
Grey Jacket with Blue Navy Pants
As in the previous case, interchange the colours to get another great classic: a grey jacket and blue trousers.
Once again, the blue and white striped shirt will make the look lighter.
- Grey Jacket
- Stripe Blue Dress Shirt
- Blue Navy Pants
Blue Navy Jacket with Beige Dress Pants
Another classic example of a broken suit is the matching blue jacket with beige trousers, for a balanced look that adapts to the most diverse contexts, paired with a neutral beige turtleneck.
- Blue Navy Jacket
- White Dress Shirt
- Beige Turtleneck
Red Burgundy Jacket with Blue Trousers
Burgundy Jacket, denim shirt, and blue trousers for a sober and refined look that is also sporty.
- Burgundy or Red Jacket
- Denim Light Blue Shirt by Ibieffe
- Cobalt Blue Trousers by Zegna
Dark Grey Jacket with Light Grey Pants
Are you the groom, and are you looking for a broken suit?
As we have specified in our suit groom’s guide, a broken suit is not the most suitable suit for a wedding.
But if you want to show off this style on one of the most important days of your life, then focus on a black lounge suit (also known as a stroller or Stresemann): a dark grey jacket, light grey trousers, and a white ceremonial shirt.
- Dark Grey Jacket
- Special Events White Dress Shirt
- Gray Trouser
Navy Blue Jacket with Patterned Grey Pants
It is always about marriage: this time, you are not the protagonist but the spectator.
In this case, an elegant two-piece will surely be suitable for the occasion, but—depending on the context—you can opt for something less rigorous: a blue jacket, grey trousers, and a white shirt will make a perfect match.
- Dark Navy Blue Wool Silk Jacket
- Classic White Shirt
- Light Grey Trousers
Azure Jacket with Sailor Blue Pants
This is the perfect match for a bright style: summery and airy yet refined and sophisticated.
Now, it’s up to you to create and choose your pieces of clothing and express your personality. We suggest that you follow four simple mix-and-match rules.
- Azure or Light Blue Jacket
- Azure or Light Blue Shirt
- Light Blue Pure Linen Trousers
Broken Suit Styling Rules
Have you ever wondered how to (and when) mismatch a suit and recombine it with suit separate colour and fabric combinations?
Here are four simple tips that will allow you to show off a refined elegance without making mistakes.
Contrast is Key
Do not fall into the trap of considering the broken suit an art for eccentrics.
Learn to manage colour contrasts depending on the occasion and mood.
To maintain a formal look, play with shades of the same colour scheme (blue-light blue, black-grey, brown-beige).
If the situation permits, don’t be afraid to match a darker-coloured blazer (burgundy, green, dark blue) with lighter-coloured trousers and dare with patterns and coloured pocket squares.
Fit on Top
Whenever you decide to go beyond formality, it is important to do it stylishly.
If you treat yourself to a spezzato, combine well-fitted blazers and trousers, possibly tailored.
A well-cut suit will allow you to play with colours and patterns while maintaining sophistication.
Mismatch with Nonchalance
The Italian term “spezzato” should not be confused with “sprezzatura“.
They are not synonymous: the truth is that one is the secret of the other.
“Sprezzatura” is the ability to wear anything with absolute nonchalance – and that’s an essential attitude for those who decide to go beyond convention.
Respect the Etiquette
Express yourself, but please observe the etiquette. Some situations need a precise dress code and where you need to adapt yourself.
If this is the case, you had better make room for conventional elegance.
What about an important meeting or job interview? A classic blue suit is the most appropriate choice. What about wedding ceremonies?
In this case, the only spezzato admitted will be the Morning Suit.
Take the First Step With The VOU’s Styling Quizzes
Start your style journey with our free resources. First, take our Face Shape Quiz to confirm your face shape and receive initial styling guidance.
Then, discover your most flattering colours with our Seasonal Colour Analysis Quiz.
Learn which garment styles suit you best through our Body Shape Quiz, and find your ideal personal style with our Fashion Style Quiz.
Transform Your Image with The VOU’s Professional Guidance
For comprehensive image development that goes beyond hat selection, The VOU offers expert styling services to ensure your complete look projects success and sophistication.
Our Professional Face Shape Analysis package provides you with a scientific analysis of your exact face shape, personalised hairstyle recommendations, customised facial hair styling guide, expert eyewear selection guidance, and detailed grooming recommendations tailored to your unique features.
For the most comprehensive transformation, consider our Complete Image Transformation Package.
This premium service includes our Professional Face Shape Analysis, Seasonal Colour Analysis, Body Shape Analysis, Fashion Style Analysis, Wardrobe Curation Guide, and Personal Brand Development.
Through this complete package, you’ll develop a cohesive style that communicates success and sophistication across all aspects of your appearance.
With years of expertise in high-end fashion collabs and a PhD in Sustainable Fashion, Ru specialises in curating eco-luxe wardrobes for the modern gentleman seeking understated refinement.
After years of managing hundreds of fashion brands from London’s office of a global retailer, Mandy has ventured into freelancing. Connected with several fashion retailers and media platforms in the US, Australia, and the UK, Mandy uses her expertise to consult for emerging fashion brands create top-notch content as an editorial strategist for several online publications.
With over twenty years of front-row fashion and styling events, collabs with haute-couture houses, and a PhD in Luxury Fashion, Laurenti is an expert in crafting personalised looks that depict old-money sophistication.
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