At the high end of the U.S. fashion industry, it was once a commercial
necessity for designers to deliver a ‘cruise’ collection. Delivered
into stores at the end of the year, it was for wealthy clients who
would travel to warmer climes between December and April and needed
fresh looks in lighter fabrics.
Over the years, most major labels continued the tradition, because
this particular delivery could serve a few different purposes. It
could refresh a winter collection; it could give a glimpse into the
next season or it could simply provide warm weather clothes during the
winter season, in the old tradition. Call it what you will, Cruise,
resort or pre-spring, here are the ten key items any retailer should
stock for the Resort 2023 season.
1. A corset
Several designers including Christopher John Rogers and Proenza
Schouler featured the type of structured corset made popular by Jean
Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westward a few decades ago. Nicky
Zimmermann’s collection was filled with the kind of silhouettes made
popular in the 1950s and 1960s. Look 12 was a structured strapless
corset top and matching full skirt with a yachting print motif.
2. A printed pant suit
Following their success this year at the retail level, pants suits in
bright colors or in an all-over print go forward into next year’s
resort season. Frederick Anderson’s version for look 14 of his
collection, was a matching jacket and slim flared pants in a blue and
green no-print print.
3. A black leather jacket
Ever since Marlon Brando famously wore one in the 1954 film ‘The Wild
Ones,’ black leather motorbike jackets have come to signify youthful
rebellion. Versace, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton all showed versions.
Derek Lam 10 Crosby included a traditional version embellished with
quilted elbow pads and silver studs.
4. A denim maxi skirt
Over the past few seasons, rugged denim skirts, especially in longer
lengths have made a comeback. They were shown by N21 and Burberry.
Designing for Tod’s, Walter Chiapponi’s look 2 was rendered in a light
blue and white wash with frayed edges and trim.
5. A tweed suit with a mini skirt
Over the years, many designers have riffed on the traditional Chanel
suit. At Carolina Herrera, Wes Gordon showed a pink, white and gold
tweed suit with a collarless ruffle trimmed jacket and matching split
side mini skirt. Dsquared2, Giambattista Valli and Derek Lam followed
suit.
6. Cargo pocket pants
Utilitarian pants with cargo or bellows pockets showed up in several
collections including those of Diesel and Dsquared2. Nicola Brognano
toughened up the Blumarine image, giving it a Y2K edge. For look 26
the designer teamed utilitarian multi pocketed cargo pants with a
feminine cold shouldered frilly top, both in cream.
7. Baggy denim jeans
In recent seasons, denim jeans have adopted a silhouette made popular
in the ‘nineties. This was the case with look 3 of the MM6 Maison
Margiela resort collection for 2023, which consisted of a soft wash
extra-long baggy legged jean with a drawstring waist.
8. A Lurex knit
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena showed several sparkly knits made
popular in the 1970s. Look 3 was a Lurex knit bra top matched to a
maxi skirt with a side split in cream and gold stripes. Sparkly knits
could also be seen at Tory Burch, Proenza Schouler, Christopher John
Rogers and Carolina Herrera.
9. A statement shirt
Many resort 23 collections, including those of Diesel, Rosetta Getty
and Sacai, showed white or striped shirts that in some way or another,
made a statement. In amongst the tweed suits and printed dresses at
Chanel, Virginie Viard presented a series of items rendered in a
striped cotton, embellished with the House logo and the numbers of its
fragrances. Look 55 was a long-sleeved button through shirtdress with
a floral yolk and white collar.
10. Bermuda shorts and jorts
‘It’ girls have made ‘jorts’ (knee-length jean shorts) and Bermudas
popular again. At Etro, the second look shown consisted of a jacket
and matching knee length shorts in a psychedelic print.
