You’ve probably heard that the eyebrows are the frame of the face. Because of their shape, length, and color, your brows can complement your features and set the stage for a stunning makeup or “no makeup” makeup look. However, maintaining the perfect brow can be tough—especially if your hair is thinning. If that’s the case, fear not. We chatted with brow experts and trichologists (they study the hair and scalp) to help you keep your brows as lush as possible as you age. Read on to find out what you shouldn’t do if your eyebrows are thinning.
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If there’s one aesthetic procedure that’s taken over our social media feeds this year, it’s eyebrow lamination, which according to Allure, is a non-invasive way to straighten and smooth your brows. During this process, a provider sets your hairs in place to create a fuller appearance that looks like you’re wearing brow gel 24/7. The effects of eyebrow lamination last about two months, making it super appealing, especially to those with thinning brows.
Unfortunately, it may not be your best option. “If the goal is to regrow your own eyebrows then I would recommend steering clear from harsh chemicals like brow laminations,” says Tiffany Young, certified trichologist and CEO of Thin Hair Thick. “Some solutions use the same chemicals as perm solution which can disrupt the natural growth process and create inflammation on sensitive skin.” Added dryness from the procedure can also cause hair breakage.
In addition to the eyebrow lamination process, it’s important to note that the products you use in your day-to-day skincare routine have the potential to further damage thinning brows. Joey Healy, founder of Joey Healy Eyebrow Studio in New York City, suggests avoiding any sort of scrub or harsh cleanser that has a mechanical exfoliation component. “If your brows are already thinning that means the hairs are shedding faster than they should be—and you do not want to dislodge them further,” he explains
Healy also notes if you do use these products to avoid the brow area so there is less friction in that region.
If the ’90s taught us anything, it’s that over-plucking and waxing the brows can cause lasting damage. “In most cases, it is best to see a professional—especially because you are not working with as much hair as you’d like to be,” says Healey.
He notes that if you need a DIY fix, tweezing is your best option out of the three. His best tip? Err on the side of caution. “Tweezing and trimming in good light is okay, and remember that less is always more,” he says. “If you see a hair you’re not sure what to do with, don’t pluck.”
But consider visiting a brow expert in-person since that will allow them to assess your eyebrow shape and hair type in order to create a plan that’s tailored to your needs. That way, you can leave that magnifying mirror in the rearview.
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The best thing our team of experts told us is that brow thinning can be improved. First, you’ll want to purchase a growth serum to strengthen the hairs. Healy recommends one that’s hormone-free, paraben-free, and full of peptides, such as his brand’s Brow Renovation Serum.
For a natural alternative, Young suggests coating brows with a thin layer of castor oil. “Castor oil is a natural derivative from castor beans and contains the fatty acid, ricinoleic acid, that eyebrows love,” she says. Young notes regrowth can take up to eight weeks, but the oil can temporarily plump the hair shaft to make the brows appear fuller.
If you’re interested in a more cosmetic approach, there are ways to level up your makeup game to create a fluffier brow. “A good tinted gel is importan,t too,” says Healy. “Tinted gels will help you by highlighting each little hair even if they are light. It will also help by adding more texture and making them look fuller.”
Next stop, beautiful brows.
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