We hear from designer Jonathan Marc Stein, who has his sights set on leather for his Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
Fashion’s biggest names are currently touring Europe in bikinis, sipping on Aperol Spritzes and soaking in the sun. But you can bet that while laying poolside on the Amalfi Coast, they are already looking ahead to the next major moment – the fall/winter fashion season. And just as all of the soon-to-be attendees are filling their shopping carts with must-have staples to rock at various shows, designer Jonathan Marc Stein is gearing up to launch his latest collection.
Known for their structured, stand-out pieces, Jonathan Marc Stein has become a go-to atelier for celebrities and influencers seeking couture gowns, chic cocktail dresses, and his highly-anticipated 2-in-1 leather trench coats, coming just in time for fall.
The brains behind the brand, Stein himself, exclusively reflects on his unique journey, and what’s next for him in 2023.
Tell us about your journey from engineer to designer. When did you realize your professional passions were changing, and what inspired you to lean in wholeheartedly?
I actually discovered my love for fashion design while I was getting my degree as a Mechanical Engineer. It was about my sophomore year in college when I saw my first ever runway video while waiting for a class to start. I believe it was a 1990-something Alexander McQueen fashion show. It really piqued my interest and that is when I began to lean in and teach myself how to sew and design. It was not until I had my first big show at New York Fashion Week that I believed in myself enough to fully commit to my new career change.
What are the biggest cultural influences that have inspired you as a designer?
As a designer, I am often inspired by my surroundings when creating new garments. These inspirations can range from art, nature, architecture, travel, and the glam and sophistication of Hollywood culture. Often, when I travel both internationally and domestically, I will draw inspiration from the buildings and design that I see while there. From modern and abstract art to beautiful landscapes. These factors can dictate the designs that I create.
You create such structured, intricate pieces that require time and attention. How did you find your unique style, and how do you always ensure you’re abiding by the high standard that your customers and clients have come to love?
My brand style has been constantly evolving. From my first ever show to where I am now, you probably would not even believe the garments were from the same designer. Inspiration from outside sources and constantly creating new ideas allowed me to finally find a style that I love and believe in. I am a perfectionist with all things I do in life, so it makes sense that I would be in my job as well. When creating a new piece in my studio I am constantly tearing garments apart until all the details are flawless and fit with my vision.
Leather dominated last year’s FW season, and will surely do the same for this year. How is leather integral to the JMS brand?
Leather has always been an integral element of my brand identity. I find the medium to be one of the most beautiful and versatile that can be found in the industry. Not only can it provide structure to a piece, but one can also make it seem extremely elegant and delicate.
Your spin on the iconic leather trench by incorporating a cropped 2-in-1 component set you apart from the crowd. What inspired this innovative design decision?
There are so many varieties of a leather jacket that can be found across the fashion industry, but they are all relatively similar. I knew that I wanted to design something unique in both form and function. The luxury industry is known for creating collections that make the consumer want to switch out for the new model every season. This makes things extremely wasteful. So I set out to create a convertible coat that offers two garments in one. With the simple pull of a zipper, a long trench coat becomes a cropped motorcycle jacket. Not only does it allow ease of use, but also doubles the amount of outfit options you have for a trip or outing.
What other fashion houses have influenced your journey in the industry?
There are so many designers that I look up to that it is hard to count. If I had to choose, the designers who influenced me the most when creating or embarking on this journey would be: Alexander McQueen, Alexandre Vauthier, Tony Ward, and Christopher Kane. They were all able to create such intricate yet modern designs that really resonated with me. These are just a few of the designers who inspired my form of style for my brand and helped to create my identity that I have today.
How are you setting the tone for 2023, and how has this been a defining year for JMS as a brand?
With the upcoming release of my latest creation, The DAN/IEL, the 2-in-1 convertible leather trench coat, I am hoping to make a splash. I have never had a signature piece representing my brand JONATHAN MARC STEIN Atelier. This will be the first one that I have released as well as the first ever batched product of the brand.
What have been some of your career highlights, and what are your biggest goals as a designer and brand founder for the next 5 years?
I have been extremely fortunate thus far into my career. Since my brand’s inception, I have dressed and worked with over 100 celebrities and been featured in major magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan, Marie Claire, etc. I was fortunate to show internationally at Arab Fashion Week in Dubai and was awarded their prestigious Golden Forever Rose ahead of some major designers. More recently, I created custom looks for Tisha Campbell when she was presenting at the Soul Train Awards, and more. I always strive to invest my best in what I do and have so many goals that I hope to reach as my career progresses. I will focus on constantly perfecting my craft and enhancing my skills in sewing and designing. Within the next 5 years I have big plans to expand my brand into Europe as well as open a storefront.
Photography by Tommy Flanagan
