BoF’s editors have followed the Spring/Summer 2024 fashion weeks from New York to London, Milan to Paris. September’s womenswear shows offered newsworthy moments (like Sabato de Sarno’s Gucci debut and Sarah Burton’s final bow at Alexander McQueen), strong statements (like Maria Grazia Chiuri’s meditation on women’s rights at Dior), and no shortage of desirable wardrobe options from Chanel to Saint Laurent to Courrèges. But a few runway moments stood out from the pack.
1. Prada
Collection, soundtrack and set conspired to create an ultra-memorable show by Miuccia Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons. The outing was also an emotional moment, as the last Prada show before Fabio Zambernardi, the group’s longtime design director, exits the company. Read More: The Miuccia-ness of Prada, the Gucci-ness of Tom Ford
2. Undercover
Undercover’s glowing, terrarium-style gowns, filled with flowers and live butterflies, made for a true fashion moment. Read More: Paris Day Three: The Power of Memories at Dries Van Noten and Undercover
3. Maison Margiela
John Galliano returned to the Paris ready-to-wear calendar with a theatrical, yet wearable outing. Read More: In Paris, a Season of Normality
These languid looks from Antwerp-based Dries Van Noten lingered in our editors’ memories. Read More: Paris Day Three: The Power of Memories at Dries Van Noten and Undercover
5. Y/Project
Glenn Marten’s favoured motifs like twisted jersey, ruched gowns and deconstructed denim were particularly striking this season. Read More: In Paris, A Season of Normality
6. JW Anderson
Sculptural, intelligent, desirable: J.W. Anderson was the highlight of London Fashion Week. Read More: In London, Plasticine and Messy Dressing
A collage of global references, including silhouettes, materials and craft techniques, were twisted and sublimated in Mathieu Blazy’s Milan show. Read More: Milan Day Four: Thinking of a Master Plan
8. Rick Owens
Rick Owens’ signature brand of post-apocalyptic chic was pushed to new heights of theatricality and reinvigorated by an infusion of colour. Read More: Paris Day Four: Dressing With Abandon
9. Miu Miu
Campus co-eds were the theme at Miu Miu again this season, backdropped by a cheeky art installation and punctuated by novel silhouettes including pleated and ruffled jacquard gowns in white and black. Read More: Paris: The Final Day — Last Women Standing
10. Mugler
They may not have a big budget, but they had the biggest fans: both the kind that sent veils flying through the air and the kind whose cheers amped up the energy at the memorable show by Casey Cadwallader. Read More: In Paris, A Season of Normality
