After a considerable respite from the fashion scene since her departure as Creative Director of French label Celine in 2018 and much speculation concerning the rumours of her own brand, Phoebe Philo has officially taken the wraps off her very first namesake collection earlier today.
The Parisian-born English designer is highly celebrated among sartorial circles for introducing a distinct code of distinguished, elegant comfort into the fashion landscape after taking the helm at Celine, and has been recognised for her exceedingly adept use of tailoring, colour-blocking with neutrals, and clean, loose silhouettes that offered a stark palette cleanser for a time in style history that was often associated with body-con sultriness.
In the case of her eponymous label, Philo hasn’t left her legions of devotees disappointed, releasing a concise 150-piece collection dubbed ‘A1’, that has made easy work of ticking every box on a predictable list of expectations: an unrivaled approach to sleek tailoring, comfortably broad, practical shapes with dramatic drapes for flare, and of course, an informed selection of textures and materials at play.
This time around, her designs have also been elevated with a punchy note of confident sexuality, such as by way of zippers that draw up the seams of trousers to the buttocks for a skimpy flash of lasciviousness. Additionally, oversized shoulders play out as a core motif in the collection through coats and jackets, apropos to the ongoing trend propelled by Vacarello’s Saint Laurent and Gvasilia’s Balenciaga, but with softer, rounder lines.
Clothing aside, Philo has made a strong case for herself as one of fashion’s most formidable handbag designers, creating a litany of classic Celine shapes that continue to have luxury consumers in a chokehold such as the Luggage and the Cabas. In the case of her own ‘A1’ collection, three styles have been introduced to the lineup. Here’s your first look at all of them.
First look: Every bag from Phoebe Philo’s brand debut
Phobe Philo XL Cabas Tote Bag
As every Philophile would know and come to anticipate, yes, the debut collection does feature an oversized leather tote bag. One of the most essential Philo shapes during her tenure at Celine, this version released under her own label is similarly simple in its construction.
As the name implies, the XL Cabas is exactly that: an extra-large tote bag, made of quality leather that measures a whopping 57.5cm in length, and 41cm in height. The bag can be loosely secured with a dog-clip closure up top and features a zippered pocket with two slip pockets for precious items. Prices start from GBP 5,800 (SGD 9633.32) for the suede version, and top out at GBP 6,200 (SGD 10297.69) for the leather.
Phoebe Philo Gig Bag
Gig Bag in Oxblood Leather
The second key style to be introduced by Phoebe Philo to her debut line of handbags is the Gig bag, which is a more portable day-to-day runabout shoulder bag. Once again, the design here is clean and minimal, with no signs of any logotype on the bag’s exterior and with only a knotted leather detail on each side side to add a flourish.
Constructed from three pouches sewn together, the interior of the bag can be accessed through a zipper opening and naturally features three sections. Two appear to be lined in contrasting suede, while the third in the middle is lined in colour-matched leather. The bag measures 31cm in length and 26cm in height, with one removable shoulder strap. Sporting three colours, they are all priced at GBP 2,600 (SGD 4318.39).
Phoebe Philo Small Kit Cabas Tote Bag
Lastly, a third, smaller tote bag rounds off the inaugural bag collection from Phoebe Philo’s ‘A1’. Arguably the most visually distinctive piece of the three, the Small Kit Cabas Tote Bag is an East-West style that features a silver-toned piece of rectangular hardware on the top-edge, which conceals a lock mechanism. As on the Gig Bag, the sides are adorned with a knot detail. Its top handles offer just enough of a drop length for comfortable shoulder carry.
Lined in contrasting suede, the bag’s interior offers one zippered pocket for secure storage of your essentials. As for everything else, its 39.8cm length and 22cm height will offer plenty of carrying capacity. Prices start from GBP 3,200 (SGD 5314.94) for the leather options, and go up to GBP 3,500 (SGD 5813.21) for ones in black calf hair.
Each material comes in two colours: black and chocolate with silver hardware for the leather, and black and chocolate with gold hardware for the calf hair.
This article was first published in LifestyleAsia Kuala Lumpur.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. What is Phoebe Philo’s new brand?
– Phoebe Philo debuted her own brand in 2023, which she named after herself.
2. What is Phoebe Philo known for?
– Phoebe Philo is best known for being the Creative Director of French label Celine until her departure in 2018. Her signatures are often recognised in tailored clothes that offered clean lines and supple comfort for women.
3. Where is Phoebe Philo based?
– Phoebe Philo is based in London.
4. Who inspired Phoebe Philo?
– Phoebe Philo’s designs are influenced by minimalist designers such as Helmut Lang and Jil Sander.
