Azelaic acid is a little more under-the-radar than its other dark spot-correcting counterparts—although it’s worth noting that The Ordinary has a serum entirely dedicated to the stuff. It works similarly to vitamin C in that it appears to inhibit tyrosinase, one of the key enzymes in the pigment production process. As for how it treats acne, the exact mechanism is TBD; signs point to its antibacterial properties as a possible means of nixing breakouts.
With this versatility in mind, it’s not a huge surprise that SkinCeuticals—which is known for its derm-loved, science-driven portfolio of skin-care products—would put it to work. Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment offers 3% azelaic acid, along with 2% alpha-arbutin (a known brightening agent) and a 5.75% phyto botanical blend (to tackle dullness). This strategic combo allows the formula to brighten, smooth skin, and clarify congested skin in a single step.
With the goods in hand, I began using it twice a day, subbing it in for my usual vitamin C. It’s the same minty-green shade as the bottle indicates, and I was surprised to find that the texture had more heft to it than the average face serum—if anything, it was more of a lightweight gel. I applied it after cleansing and before moisturizing, and it spread nicely onto my skin, absorbing quickly and evenly.
I don’t know if it’s the season, my hormones, or fleeting luck, but my skin has been relatively clear for a week or two now—so it’s been hard to tell whether all the credit belongs to this serum. (On the flip side, it hasn’t caused any breakouts, either. I guess no news is good news.)
However, my dark spots seem to be fading at a faster rate than usual. And I’ve noticed the biggest improvement in my skin texture, which is so smooth and soft, that it’s almost in baby bottom territory. The errant bumps and teeny-tiny clogs that I’m prone to—the kind that never come to a head, and therefore are impossible to get rid of—have seemingly disappeared.
Courtesy of subject
What I find compelling is that instead of leaning on the usual standbys, the treatment takes a multifactorial approach to a similarly multifactorial issue. As a result, the SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment was convincing enough in its payoff for me to keep it in my routine and see what it offers in the long haul—and, also, tell everyone about it.
