Photographer James Frost captures the energy and creativity of the Spring/Summer menswear season, and shares his thoughts on the most exciting events.
Held at Paris’ UNESCO headquarters, Louis Vuitton’s opening night show captured the optimism surrounding the city as it prepares to host the Olympic Games for the first time since 1924. A large globe surrounded by billowing flags of the world took centre stage, with the turfed runway imprinted with the fashion titan’s iconic checkered ‘damier’ pattern. Stormzy, Sabrina Carpenter and Central Cee lined the front row, with the latter nonchalantly playing on his Nintendo DS as he waited for the show to commence. The collection involved a spectrum of colour, starting with darker shades and transitioning into lighter ones; celebrating the beauty of humans and their different skin tones, according to creative director, Pharrell Williams.
Thursday’s lineup included Amiri’s ready-to-wear collection; an ode to Hollywood’s glory days and the avant-garde style of America’s talented jazz musicians of the past. Mike Amiri truly brought the brand’s Californian roots to Paris, as his models strutted down the runway fitted in relaxed tailoring, soft pastel tones and sun-dyed leather. French Montana and M Huncho were in attendance.
Right: RICH THE KID
As one show came to a close, Yohji Yamamoto’s highly-anticipated display kicked off on the other side of the Seine. Yohji stated that the collection was a response to “the world becoming more dangerous,” and that garments were designed with increased global warming in mind. The small, dimly-lit venue quickly became overcrowded with guests, and the models, adorned in loosely layered silk shirts and robes, were likely the coolest in the swelteringly hot room.
Later that evening, rapper Rich the Kid hosted a listening party in Montmartre for his upcoming album, bringing along collaborators such as Young Adz, Destroy Lonely and French Montana.
Friday’s main attraction was the Dior show; A-List attendees included Kate Moss, Robert Pattinson and Bad Bunny. Kim Jones lined his vast runway with ceramic cat statues designed by legendary potter Hylton Nel, and claimed that his collection drew inspiration from his travels to South Africa – the muted colour palette of light blues and pinks representing the sky colours during different times of the day. Models sported delicately knitted cloche hats, playful avian-themed sweaters and neatly tailored suits.
Another standout moment came later that evening, as A$AP Rocky debuted his first solo collection for his brand, AWGE. The show’s entrance was a war zone, and rightly so; Alexandre Arnault, Pusha T and Tremaine Emory were carefully escorted through the crowds as people brawled for a glimpse past the gates. Following the show, Rocky explained that his designs stemmed from the political unrest and social inequality in the USA.
The place to be on Friday night was Babylon’s party at YOYO, where Zack Bia led an eclectic line-up of DJ’s into the early hours of the morning. West London’s Central Cee also popped out as a surprise guest, performing his new single featuring Lil Baby, ‘BAND4BAND.’ The next day, Bia introduced his new shoe collaboration with Asics; with the unique trainer donning a bright green upper and electric blue sole.
As the sun began to set, the masses swarmed towards the Trianon theatre to witness Kidsuper’s next ambitious (and always slightly insane) take on high fashion. By collaborating with Cirque Du Soleil and once again bringing on fashion wizard Wisdom Kaye as lead stylist, creative director Colm Dillane once again raised the bar. The opening act saw dancers effortlessly flip and frolic across the stage, followed by a not-so-traditional catwalk; the hands of each model were meticulously tied with strings to giant moving hands above, imitating a nostalgic puppet show.
Once again, Paris Fashion Week did not disappoint.
Photography and Words
James Frost