The Oxford Cloth Button Down shirt (or OCBD) is one of those dress shirts that just isn’t a dress shirt.
As a sports shirt, the Oxford Cloth button-down shirt can add casual tones to an otherwise formal outfit.
Paired with a summer suit and a tie or under a blazer, it can blend in with various outfits while creating a nonchalant attitude.
What Exactly Is an OCBD Shirt?
You’ve probably seen or worn an Oxford shirt before, but you might not have realised.
The name Oxford refers to a type of cloth originally made in Scotland.
It’s heavier and has a rougher weave (also sometimes known as a basket weave) than other types of shirts, which means it’s sometimes more durable.
Oxford cloth tends to hold its shape well and is often stiffer than other fabric types.
When different-coloured threads are woven together, an Oxford shirt can have a two-tone appearance, but single-colour shirts are just as popular.
A white Oxford shirt is a classic look that works for all kinds of events, from laid-back days to formal affairs.
It’s a versatile and timeless look wherever you’re headed.
Soft Button Down Collar
As the name implies, it must have a soft button-down collar without interlining.
A collar roll achieves the proper look by requiring the buttons to be placed closer to the collar than if they would lay straight.
Many shirt manufacturers use a standard collar with interlining that is buttoned down, but that’s not what defines the look of a classic OCBD.
Oxford Cloth
It must be made of Oxford cloth – a weave similar to a plain canvas weave, except that several yarns are woven in strands together rather than individually.
Choosing the Right Button-Down Shirt
There are so many button-downs available today made of different fabrics, ranging from linen and cotton to polyester blends — but an authentic OCDB has a few details you should look for:
A Soft Roll Collar
Most shirt companies today offer a fused collar with interlining that is a bit stiffer.
If they add a button-down collar option, the collar usually lays flat, whereas the original has an S collar curl, achieved by making the collar longer.
Moreover, the original OCBD collar had no interlining and was soft.
Therefore, anything but a soft, S-curled button-down collar cannot be called an OCBD.
To find out who still makes a truly soft, rolled collar today, read on!
100% Cotton (Avoid the Poly-Blends)
Cotton, linens, and even silk are ones worth looking at.
Unfortunately, most button-downs sold today blend materials primarily backed by polyester.
There’s a reason Brooks Brothers uses cotton as their go-to fabric for the OCBD: It lasts, it feels great, and it looks fantastic.
Box Pleat
Traditional OCBD shirts feature a box pleat in the middle for extra movement.
Some shirts may have no pleats or side pleats, etc., but the original has a box pleat in the middle.
Cuffs Should be Casual
Many men love the idea of wearing French cuff shirts, and truthfully, most of my dress shirts are French or single cuff.
However, when it comes to the button-down, let’s not forget that this sports shirt should remain far more casual than your formal shirts.
Therefore, we recommend sticking with the standard barrel button cuff.
Keep it classic. On the chance you do end up with a rare French cuff OCBD, at least wear some more whimsical cufflinks rather than elegant ones.
If you’re going to the races, try and find ones shaped like thoroughbreds.
For a night at the country club, focus on golf club cufflinks.
Pairing casual cufflinks with a more formal cuff is one way to remind yourself and others that the button-down is all about the weekend, and the weekend is all about fun.
Traditionally, the cuff was soft without interlining, and while that is comfortable your shirt must fit tightly on your wrist, otherwise you will end up with wrinkles on your cuff.
Go with Long Sleeves
Finally, the OCBD should always have long sleeves. They work splendidly with chinos, denim jeans, or GTH (go-to-hell) pants.
On a hot day, you can roll up your shirt sleeves — otherwise, they should be long.
Some companies also sell short-sleeved oxford cloth button-down shirts, but if you want short sleeves, we suggest you look into popover shirts or polo shirts, which look better for summer wear than short-sleeved OCBDs. You can always roll up your shirt sleeves.
Get The Fit Right
When it comes to the cut, slim, tailored, and regular are the most common options available.
Your shirt shouldn’t feel too tight across your chest, even if you prefer a more fitted style.
Ideally, the shoulder seams should sit where your chest and arm meet so they don’t stretch across your front.
Collars are usually button-down, which means the ends of your collar can be fastened to your shirt with discreet buttons, keeping things neat without being overly stuffy.
Ideally, you want to fit two fingers between your neck and closed collar so it stays neat whether you’re buttoned up or a little bit open.
With a long-sleeved shirt style, you want to ensure the sleeve hem ends where your arm and hand join.
You’ll know exactly where this should be if you’ve ever worn a shirt with slightly too short sleeves.
Start With The Basics
While the patterned button-down shirts are fun to wear, you will likely not be able to combine them as easily as plain white, blue and salmon-coloured shirts.
Therefore, starting with the basic OCBD white and blue shirt pays. Once you have those covered, consider some solid pastels or fine stripes.
Once you’ve developed a collection, you can choose from colours like grey, purple, khaki, green, orange, etc., or opt for bolder Bengal stripes.
Where to Wear an Oxford Button-Down Shirt
Because an Oxford shirt is durable, simple, and stylish, it works well with almost anything you wear.
Pair it with a smart men’s suit for more formal events like weddings or Ascot, then scale it back for something more casual.
This type of shirt also works well for everyday plans, such as work, family gatherings, business meetings, or drinks.
If you choose this style of shirt for work, be mindful of the dress code in your office.
An Oxford shirt is a great option for a more relaxed office environment because it’s easy to style up and down.
Wear it with chinos for a laid-back day or under a suit jacket for a big meeting.
Because of its heavier weave and weightier fabric, an Oxford shirt is usually a better choice for the cooler months.
That’s one of the reasons we love them for winter or outdoor weddings, especially when you can’t rely on British weather.
However, when paired with a jacket, a heavier weave Oxford shirt can be a little warm, so go for something lighter in the summer.
Dos and Don’ts
Today, button-downs are reserved for the casual yet dapper gentleman. These are the rules.
Do Not Wear BDs with Formal Wear
Tuxedos, morning coats, strollers, tailcoats… Call it what you will; the button-down was not made for them.
Wearing a button-down with formal attire is about as silly as wearing white socks with sandals. The same goes for business double-breasted suits. Leave the button down at home.
Do Not Wear Button Downs to Formal Workplaces
If you wear a suit to work, read above. The button-down is a very informal dress shirt.
It can be styled splendidly with a blazer, a sports jacket or under a sweater, but it must never be worn with anything more formal.
If you work in a very casual office environment, feel free to wear one. But only if your office celebrates casual Friday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday.
Do Not Wear Short Sleeved Button Downs in Summer
Many look at the button-down and assume the short sleeves are OK, but short-sleeved shirts with a button-down collar look odd.
Rather than a short-sleeved shirt, wear a long-sleeved shirt with the sleeves rolled up or a polo shirt with short sleeves—but not a button-down collar shirt with short sleeves.
Do Not Wear Button Downs to Interviews
Many people think it is a great idea to wear a button-down for an interview at a casual office job since it’s technically still a dress shirt but doesn’t give off the same formal undertones as the standard classic or semi-spread collar broadcloth shirt.
Oxford is a more casual fabric.
While you may be able to show up in an Oxford shirt at offices, we suggest a poplin or broadcloth shirt.
Check out What To Wear To An Interview to learn more about that topic.
Do Wear Button Downs on the Weekend
The weekends were invented for button-downs. Or maybe it was the other way around?
Either way, weekends and button-downs go together like gin and limes.
Unless you’re attending a formal event, the button-down should be your go-to casual shirt during the day.
How to Style an Oxford Button-Down Shirt
You decide how you wear your shirt, but if you need help styling your Oxford shirt, we’ve got you covered.
Sometimes it’s easy to get caught out by the different formal and business casual interpretations.
Cocktail and Semi-Formal
Heading to a wedding or cocktail event? The dress code will usually be pretty clear.
It’s normally a white Oxford shirt and a black or navy blue suit – you can even explore other neutral suit tones if you’d prefer something less formal.
For other events, including less formal weddings where you’re a guest and not in the wedding party, you can have a bit more fun with your outfit, adding different colours and accessories like a watch or cufflinks.
For events classified as semi-formal, you can usually remove the tie and mix up your colour choices more.
You can also move away from styling your shirt with a suit and try more casual picks like a less formal blazer or chinos.
Business Casual and Smart Casual
If you’ve ever looked up business casual in a panic, you’ll know there isn’t one single definition of this style.
It’s very much open to interpretation, which we think is good.
Generally, this dress code focuses on more modern styles and casual fits.
It’s not about being buttoned up, uncomfortable or overly formal.
Smart casual is less about the workplace and more about sunny days, outdoor weddings and dinner at a nice restaurant.
You can tone down the formality by pairing your Oxford shirt with tailored trousers or wearing it open with a T-shirt underneath.
Smart shorts can also work well if you want to move towards the more casual end of the scale.
Casual
Oxford shirts are great for layering and keep you warm in autumn and winter.
Layer under a jumper with the collar peeking through, and add jeans or chinos for a relaxed feel.
Rolled-up sleeves, opening up your shirt, or unfastening the top two buttons can also up the casual factor.
You can wear your Oxford shirt untucked or half-tucked, too.
Where to Buy Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirts From
Some of the very best OCBDs are actually from the 1960s.
Back then, quality was more revered by the general public and most companies at the time weren’t as prone to taking shortcuts to lower costs.
If you can find a classic Brooks Brothers button-down in good shape, I urge you to buy it.
Since they’re so popular, I also recommend asking family or friends if they have any they no longer wear.
Any true Old Money family owns one, and, as a bonus, you’ll spend a lot less money.
Unless you’re buying vintage, you’ll get what you pay for, to a certain extent.
I assume this goes without saying, but avoid buying your button-downs at bargain bin stores like Walmart. The quality will be horrendous.
Rather than spending $25 on a poorly made button-down, you’ll have to replace it in a year, double your budget and buy a quality shirt.
Granted, it will cost a little more, but you’ll have a shirt that will last years if not decades.
The Oxford cloth button-down is an American-style staple. It’s been in style since it first came out, and chances are it’s a trend that’s not going anywhere anytime soon.
To list all of the clothing companies and designer brands that currently make button-downs would be nearly impossible.
Everyone from Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, J.Press and J.Crew make them all the way down to the bargain bin brands from Walmart, Costco, and Target.
However, finding the traditional OCBD shirt with a soft rolled collar and hard-wearing Oxford cotton cloth has become difficult.
Traditionally, Brooks Brothers made probably the most classic ones; they have changed and modernised their style over the years.
A Brief History of the Button-Down
Today, many people mistake the button-down for a typical dress shirt, thinking it must be a button-down if it buttons vertically.
It is not. In fact, the button-down was created for polo players. A button on either collar flap allows the wearer to secure the polo shirt so the wind doesn’t flap it in his face during a match.
This is a significant part of the evolution of the polo shirt, which was created by Polo players in India in the 1850s and then brought to England in the decade after that.
Brooks Brothers Invent the OCBD
On a trip across the pond to England, American haberdashery Brooks Brothers spotted this trend and decided it could become a cultural icon and menswear staple. They were right.
Introduced in 1896 and growing in popularity soon after, the button-down collar shirt became an instant hit in Hollywood and across the U.S.
While many companies copied them, only Brooks Brothers managed to corner the industry with their newly developed dress shirt, which featured button-down collars and Oxford cloth.
Initially worn with business suits and more formal apparel, the shirt became more casual by the 1950s as America adopted the backyard barbecue trend.
The OCBD Becomes Casual
Now a focus of weekend get-togethers amongst friends, it was a classic wardrobe choice for men attending holiday parties, barbecues, and even good old-fashioned American sporting events.
Young and old, it was a style adopted by everyone from varied demographics.
The shirt could be found under a bespoke business suit on a high-ranking executive or an auto repair salesman buying a pack of Lucky Strikes at the local Piggly Wiggly.
It didn’t seem to matter who wore it or where, but it became a way for men to showcase their style in various ways and with various outfits.
One of the biggest benefits of the button-down at the time—and even today—was its versatility, which allowed men to spend less money on shirts because it could be worn with so many ensembles.
It was a true everyman’s shirt in basic colours and some great patterns and prints.
Casual style icons like Cary Grant, Humphrey Bogart, Fred Astaire, and Mr. Relaxation (Perry Como) regularly wore button-downs.
Worn under Como’s cardigans and Astaire’s double-breasted suits, it was evident from Hollywood cinema that men could do whatever they wanted with the shirt.
Surprisingly, unlike many clothes, the button-down continued to grow, and it remains as popular today as it was from the 1920s through the 1960s.
Old Money style icons outside the U.S., such as Gianni Agnelli, helped popularise the OCBD outside the States.
The Avocatto often wore his Brooks Brothers OCBDs with the watch on top of the cuff, and the collar buttons were undone.
Today, the shirts are made by almost every clothing brand that caters to men.
From the classic sports shirts (as they’re now called) at Brooks Brothers to the inexpensive variants sold by Walmart and Target’s house brands, the button-down seems to be sold just about everywhere — and for a good reason — because men everywhere are buying them.
Conclusion
Now that you know the benefits of oxford cotton button-down shirts, it’s time to try them.
They are a unique and remarkable piece of clothing for which you will find a range of outfits to pair.
Which brand makes your favourite OCBD? Do you have a particular way of wearing them?
