Known for its sustainability principles and classic Scandi style, Copenhagen Fashion Week is evolving and diversifying — and these 5 emerging designers are leading the pack.
Caro Editions / Photography by James Cochrane
When you think of Copenhagen Fashion Week, it’s hard not to conjure up an image of the classic Scandinavian wardrobe: puffy sleeves, layers, rich pastels, relaxed yet refined silhouettes, joyful prints. Drawn from OG leaders of the space, from Ganni to Cecilie Bahnsen, it’s the pulled together effortless of a carefully pinned messy bun, detail-oriented and accessorised to perfection yet with an overarching feel of ease that makes any look seem thrown together in a spontaneous moment. And, of course, it’s worn with a fresh-faced dewy makeup look that creates the illusion that everyone in the region has perfectly hydrated skin. (Or maybe they just do.)
But while this classic look remains prominent on the streets of Copenhagen, the city’s fashion week has evolved into a vibrant, diverse array of visual genres, with grunge-tinted collections, experimental silhouettes, and new colour palettes shaking things up. It makes sense, of course, as the global prominence of CPHFW has exponentially risen in the last several years, growing the schedule from a niche series of events for the eco-conscious to a rival of the big four: New York, London, Milan, and Paris fashion weeks. And as many of the original designers who helped put the space on the map, such as the aforementioned Ganni and Cecilie Bahnsen, have slowly dropped off the calendar to explore new cities and give space for emerging talent, the jam-packed four-day schedule is left full of new ideas, fresh perspectives, and groundbreaking collections. All of whom are united by a clear focus on sustainability, adhering to a system of requirements that doesn’t so much as limit their designs, but proves to enhance creativity and forward-thinking technical excellence.
We have rounded up five of our favourite designers to watch from this season, from Caro Editions to OpéraSPORT.
OpéraSPORT
Photography by James Cochrane
The DNA of OpéraSPORT is in its name. A mergence of practical athleticwear and luxurious design, the Copenhagen-based brand was established by Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stetler in 2019 — and have exclusively used fabrics created from industrial waste ever since. The only exception lies in its cotton, which when not recycled is organic and GOTS certified. Sporty, sexy, and sustainable? A dream. For their SS25 collection, the label drew inspiration from the Exillion Garden in the north of Copenhagen, whose blend of natural and architectural beauty became a muse for the designers.
Alectra / Masculina
Photography by Wilian Juul Lasse Gudmand-Høyer
Lights, camera, action: Alectra Rothschild / Masculina has done it again. Known for their craftsmanship and theatrical glamour, the label was selected as a CPHFW NEWTALENT: One to Watch back in the AW23 season, and continues to prove themselves a growing, exciting name in the industry. Rothschild brings an expertise in tailoring to a fun and avant-garde space, with a focus on femininity and inclusivity that feels natural and free-spirited. This season added motorcycles and scaffolding to the mix, evoking the feeling of a post-club after party (arguably the best part of a night out). Intimate yet momentous, it felt like seeing the innermost part of someone — the secrets underneath the dressed up, latex-adorned club-wear. Not to mention she crafted the latex herself, embossing it with lace.
Caro Editions
Photography by James Cochrane
Founded by Caroline Bille Brahe, Caro Editions is one of the most eye-watering, visually addicting labels of late. Precise tailoring, playful detailing, and that classic Scandi easy-to-wear attitude walked the runway of their CPHFW debut this season, coming together to create vibrant and fresh looks that are instantly recognisable as the work of the Copenhagen-based brand. “It’s a big step but it feels very right, natural, gives Caro Editions a lot of energy,” the label shared on Instagram. “For me it’s a good reminder of why we are doing this, the collective energy. I am so grateful to all the people who want to work with us. It’s really fun to get such a large group of people together, feeling their energy, I’m really touched.”
(Di)vision
Photography by James Cochrane
Siblings Nanna & Simon Wick founded (Di)vision in 2018 with the idea of creating from what already exists in the world. Using deadstock, upcycled, and recycled materials, the label offers fresh and colourful designs with an air of playful nostalgia. This season, stuffed animals and candy found their way onto garments, with an eclectic patchwork lineup of looks that somehow made pyjamas, sportswear, upside-down tanks, lacy dresses, and graphic tees feel perfectly in place altogether. Innovative is part of their DNA, and their way of highlighting their sponsor — The Ordinary — lived up to their reputation: a dress made out of the skincare brand’s boxes.
Sinéad O’Dwyer
Photography by James Cochrane
The winner of the Zalando Visionary Award for 2024, Irish designer Sinéad O’Dwyer held her first Copenhagen Fashion Week presentation this season — and she fit right in. And by that, I mean, she totally stood out. Bringing her signature cut-outs and ruffles to the Opera Park, she designed for the hot summer day we got. Bold hues and barely-there dresses walked the runway, which was adorned with sculptures based off of 3D scans of Sinéad’s early cast works of artist Jade O’Belle. As always, O’Dwyer pushed the boundaries on what inclusion really means, working with the Danish Association of the Blind to invite blind and low vision guests to experience the show with immersive audio descriptions and fabric swatches to touch. For the first time at CPHFW, a blind model and broadcaster, Lucy Edwards, walked the show with her guide dog.
