Above image: Romy Schneider at her dressing table, photographed by Helga Kneidl in Paris, May 1973.p. 91 © Helga Kneidl, courtesy of Kai Middendorff Galerie, Francfort from Paris: Capital of Guerlain, Flammarion 2022.
Not a lot of things last nearly two-hundred years, especially in the realm of style. But founded all the way back in 1828, Guerlain is amongst the oldest and most exalted names in luxury beauty. While immediately recognized for its iconic scents, the Parisian brand’s heritage is deeply intertwined with the city itself, and with the family that has guided it for generations. A striking new book, Paris: Capital of Guerlain – by journalist and biographer Laurence Benaïm – vividly examines its evolution against the backdrop of the French capital’s ever-changing worlds of fashion, art, and culture.
The story takes us back to how, upon opening the house of Guerlain’s first boutique on the very fashionable Rue de Rivoli, Pierre-Francios-Pascal was quickly considered a significant arbiter of elegance and innovation – creating fragrances that were both timeless and yet distinctly provocative. But Benaïm also explains how beyond the scent, a great part of the brand’s success was the artful packaging, boudoir-worthy bottles inspired by Paris and its architectural marvels.
Establishing an early following among the fashionable tastemakers of the day (analog influencers?), British royalty and Parisian ingénues were soon all liberally doused in the bouquets of Guerlain.
Benaïm makes the point that although the name is widely associated with scent, the brand can also be credited with establishing the quintessential French girl look, as a smoky eye and bright red lips offset by flawless skin was a hallmark of Guerlain’s muses. The book goes on to recall how in 1870 the house developed the world’s very first twist-up lipstick, and how that invention went on to become a symbol of the modern, liberated woman (a full forty years before Coco Chanel opened her first shop). As fashionable femmes around the globe embraced Guerlain’s forward-thinking products, the industry innovated, leading to new trends in makeup and skincare science that are still relevant today.
While Paris: Capital of Guerlain impeccably traces two centuries of history, it ultimately demonstrates the house of Guerlain’s unmatched ability to transform innovation into tradition through a uniquely seductive Parisian lens. And as one might expect from venerable publisher Flammarion, it’s all quite beautifully and stylishly presented.
