Loewe SS23 was a story of provocative contradictions. In true J.W. Anderson fashion, anthuriums collided with 8-bit motifs, while angular drapery, floor-sweeping sleeves, and shrunken silhouettes created erotic tension throughout. After the show, under the cover of a towering vinyl flower that bloomed from the base of the catwalk, our editor-in-chief Mel Ottenberg met with Arca, Honey Dijon, and Hari Nef to wax poetic about the collection.—CAITLIN LENT
HONEY DIJON, ARCA
MEL OTTENBERG: Ok, International doll conference part 75, I’m here with Honey Dijon and Arca.
HONEY DIJON: The legendary Arca.
ARCA: The legendary honey.
OTTENBERG: Arca says that we met at a rooftop party with Bjork and Shayne [Oliver] but it’s not true, we’re just meeting in person right now.
ARCA: If you want to save face I’ll tell you we’ve never met before.
OTTENBERG: It’s so nice to meet you. [Laughs]
DIJON: We can always create new fantasies.
OTTENBERG: Y’all are living the fantasy.
DIJON: Can ask I ask you to take a photo of us?
OTTENBERG: Yes of course, but hold on. This is a review of the show.
DIJON: Oooh, work!
ARCA: It was fucking fab.
DIJON: It’s ova. Tens across the board. I want those balloon pumps. Those Minnie Mouse shoes.
ARCA: Fabulosidad regia, me encanto. Estaba divinamente orcestrado. Sexy. Deconstruido, moderno.
ARCA: The baby dolls.
OTTENBERG: The simple sweater dress, there’s something for everybody and I’m turned the fuck out.
MEL OTTENBERG: Okay, International Doll Conference part 86. Because I’ve got all of the best dolls in the world.
HARI NEF: The only dolls. The Loewe dolls.
OTTENBERG: The Loewe dolls. Which have been Arca, Honey Dijon, and Hari Nef. I’m not talking to anybody else, honey. This is closed, you’re the last review. You’ll be the best review. What you got to say?
NEF: I gotta say that this collection got me hot in the uncanny valley, baby. The space between the flesh and the digital, the artificial and the organic. A hermaphroditic flower sprouting out of the gallery white floor, the sound of footsteps out of sync with the models’ steps. The curve of a woman rendered angular. I felt a little scared. But then I was delighted because I’m always looking for skirts and dresses that are, in fact, that short. That scandalously, coochie-revealingly short, and now I know where to find them.
NEF: So I’m happy. But I’m also a little scared.
OTTENBERG: I’m just relieved that my morals and values are here. I’m being reminded of what I really like on the runway. I’m just going with it. I’m not scared. I actually think that fashion is really interesting right now. The idea that fashion sucks is something that I am not so interested in.
NEF: Who is saying fashion sucks right now?
OTTENBERG: Someone who’s not going to the thing. It’s like—well this dress you’re wearing, bitch. Look at this fucking thing.
NEF: These are actual tennis balls for the doggies and soccer balls.
OTTENBERG: Oh, wow.
NEF: Just covered in fabric.
OTTENBERG: Oh wow. Okay.
NEF: This is the between-seasons collection that they don’t even post on Vogue.com. Honey, you don’t know where this is from. ‘Cause it’s in-house only, mama.
OTTENBERG: Love, okay. [Laughs]