Just over a month after Riccardo Tisci stepped down from his role as Burberry’s chief creative officer, the Italian designer has released work under his own name for the first time in 17 years.

Tisci created a custom gown for actress and screenwriter Michaela Coel to wear at the London premiere of “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever,” the sequel to the 2018 blockbuster whose star-studded cast she joined. The design bears Tisci’s dark romantic signatures. Said to have been created with input from Coel and her mother, the black gown featured a stretch-silk bodysuit embellished with a multi-layered skirt of Chantilly lace in floral and starred patterns. The look also included black floral lace tights and black sandals designed by Tisci.

Tisci established his own label in 2004, before putting the project on pause the next year after he became the creative director of Givenchy, a role he held until 2017. The following year, he joined Burberry, where he ushered in a sharper brand image, alongside street-savvy looks for men and twisted formalwear for women. But his designs failed to resonate widely enough to restore Burberry’s momentum and Tisci exited the brand in September.

In a statement, Tisci said when Coel approached him about working with her, he knew the premiere in London would offer the right moment. “It felt like the perfect time to celebrate Riccardo Tisci, the house that brought me so many opportunities and which led me to where I am today,” he said.

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