As for what differentiates traditional goth makeup from today’s take on the trend? “Gothic makeup is using dark but soft shades of black or plum around the eyes and lips to give a sinister or mysterious expression to the face,” celebrity makeup artist Nydia Figueroa tells Glamour. “This [glam] look is different because it’s still a monochromatic look using those deep shades, but it’s much softer and slightly ethereal. There are also shades of brown on the eyes to add a little bit of warmth to the look.”
Some classic examples of ‘90s era goth glam include Neve Campbell, Winona Ryder, and of course, former Wednesday (and now, Ms. Thornill): Christina Ricci. “This was definitely a popular look in the ’90s goth grunge era,” Figueroa adds.
Ready to enter your goth (makeup) phase, or simply looking to cosplay as your favorite Addams girl? Here’s how, according to the pros. “I would start with the eyes and use a combination of a warm brown and a black blended on the top and bottom lash lines. Use the brown first, then blend the black on top towards the base of the lash going upwards slightly towards the crease,” says Figueroa, who suggests I love the Makeup By Mario Master Mattes palette for this look in particular.
As for complexion? It’s very minimal, so Figueroa suggests using a medium-coverage, buildable foundation like PUR Cosmetics – 4-in-1 tinted moisturizer. “I like to apply this foundation with the fingers, and set where needed with a translucent loose or pressed powder. Then, opt for a cool-toned contour for the cheekbones, and use a little of that shade under the eyes for the full Wednesday goth effect.”
Next up? Lips. According to McDonald, Ortega wore M.A.C Lip Pencil in Nightmoth, mixed with Dr. PAWPAW clear balm, though she notes that it’s now mostly sold out worldwide. If you can’t get your hands on the exact shade, no worries: simply opt for another dark plum liner like NARS’ Train Bleu or Wet’n’Wild’s Plum Together for your goth glam pout. “You can almost draw the pencil on your hand, add a little bit of the PAWPAW to get the consistency like a colored balm, and then just dab it on your lips,” McDonald says.