Chanel.
With only one name, this fashion brand conjures images of luxury and sophistication. Its global reach is unmatched. On top of the rich history and widespread love for Chanel, the label is known as one of the most timeless and trustworthy brands.
But there are always questions to ask, especially when it comes to the biggest names in high fashion. Who was Coco Chanel? How did the brand become the cultural icon it is today? And why does Chanel have a reputation for unmatched quality? Well, we have your answers!
Join us for a recap of the fashion house’s history, the story of founder Coco Chanel herself, and how the brand is continuing to revolutionize fashion and luxury.
The Woman Behind the Brand
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel (1883 – 1971), also known as Coco, is, as you would guess, the founder of Chanel and the fashion queen behind the brand’s history.
She was born into a poor family in France. Her mother passed away when Coco was only 12, and her father left her and her sisters in the care of nuns at an orphanage. Though it was not an easy life, she learned to sew during her time with the nuns; a skill that would serve her well later in life. With nothing to her name, Coco would be left to find her own way in the world.
Once she turned 18, she left the orphanage, making her way to a group home where she found work as a seamstress. However, she did not fully enter the fashion world right away. Instead, she started singing in a cabaret to make ends meet. Her charms and talent earned her the attention of a wealthy textile heir, and with his help, she began making and selling her fashionable hats from his flat in Paris. It was her first foray into women’s fashion, but as we know, Coco Chanel did not stop there.
From the Top Down
Coco opened her first hat shop in 1910. The sign on the front read “Chanel Modes” and it was located at 21 rue Cambon in Paris. The boutique was near the Ritz and drew the attention, and business, of many wealthy hotel guests.
Though her sleek and fashionable hats were very popular, she did not stay solely in the accessories business. In 1913, Chanel became popular for sportswear. This might come as a surprise considering the classy looks that Chanel would become known for. She exploded in fame not just because of the clothing, but because of the material from which they were made.
These sportswear items were made from jersey material, which was originally popular in making men’s undergarments. It was a far more soft, breathable, comfortable fabric that was suited to an active lifestyle or physical labor. This shift in fabric for women’s clothing was revolutionary, and the garments were an instant hit! Gone were the days of tight corsets and fitted bodices; instead, loose jersey material was in. Women could move freely and comfortably in their clothing, and it was a much more forgiving fabric than satin and silk. This creation put Coco Chanel and her brand name on the map, but these history making ideas did not stop with jersey sportswear.
In 1918 Coco moved herself and her brand down the street from 21 to 31 Rue Cambon, where the brand’s headquarters still exists today. Originally a townhouse, the four-story building was built at the end of the 18th century. Located in one of Paris’s most fashionable districts it made the perfect home for Coco and the Chanel brand.
The Perfume Craze
Chanel gained more popularity in the following years, with couture and boutiques popping up around France. However, it was the perfume that people went nuts for. In the early 1920s, Coco Chanel, along with her perfume partner, created Chanel No. 5: one of the most well-known fragrances to this day. Not only was she one of the first French fashion houses to add a perfume to her couture offerings, but the scent was beloved by many. With hints of jasmine and other floral notes, it is known as a classy and timeless scent. This fragrance led to the launch of other perfumes as well, such as Chanel No. 22 and Coco Chanel the Perfume. Chanel No. 5 was well ahead of its time and remains an iconic scent to this day.
Famous Faces for Chanel
Although Chanel officially shut down in 1939 due to the war, by the early 1950’s they were up and running again. It was during that time the company found favor with American celebrities.
Marilyn Monroe endorsed Chanel No. 5, claiming that it was what she wore to bed. This endorsement led to other endorsements from celebrities, and more attention in the public sphere. Some of the most well-known celebrities to speak their praise are Jackie Kennedy, Jane Fonda, and Elizabeth Taylor. All of these women were, and still are, known for their timeless, elegant style. Because of these chic chicks, Chanel’s reputation as a brand continued to grow.
Trends for the 50s and 60s
This era saw a boom in the fashion industry, and Chanel as well in no small part. During this time some of the most iconic pieces were introduced into the Chanel gallery. The tweed two-piece suit, an infamous design, was introduced and popularized during the 1950s and 60s. Among this creation was more jersey material, a throwback for consumers, as well as the 2.55 Purse and bell bottoms. It was an ever-changing time for the fashion industry, and it was a time of change for Chanel too.
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Brand History Post Coco Chanel
The legendary Coco Chanel died at 87 in 1971, but the Chanel brand quickly lived on and its history grew with a new Artistic Director, Karl Lagerfeld. During this time, the Ready-To-Wear collection came out. This was something new, as haute couture and things of that nature were mostly worn by celebrities. Now, others can buy and wear Chanel on the street. It was haute couture, but it was also streetwear.
Chanel’s Latest Moves
Of course, Chanel continues to make new lines of both haute couture, as well as ready-to-wear fashion. Well, their newer lines have something for everyone. A little of the old and a bit of the new are intertwined with runway looks from Chanel. A piece of the past that Chanel lovers always go crazy for is the iconic tweed.
The tweed co-ord sets were absolutely the rage when Coco Chanel was alive. It was one of the pieces that she was perhaps most known for, and that legacy has not dulled in the slightest. The more traditional looks of skirts with tights are also prevalent, which is a nod to the classy, sophisticated style she was known for.
However, some new trends are permeating the collections, such as bolder colors and fresh silhouettes. Bright pinks and emerald greens are very popular in the newer lines. Additionally, the pairing of multiple bold colors with one another is a theme in recent collections. Blues with pinks, greens with purples; everything is very vibrant and delightfully bold.
When it comes to modern silhouettes, there are looser fits and longer dresses, as opposed to tighter, shorter skirts. While there are nods to the past and a respect for tradition, Chanel continues to be the revolutionary label that they were in the past.
See Chanel’s latest collections, along with the brand’s past season collections, at chanel.com.
Honoring Craftsmanship & Preserving Crafts
Since 2002, Chanel has paid tribute annually to the masterful craftspeople in fashion with their Métiers d’art collection. On each occasion, they bring together hundreds of embroiderers, goldsmiths, feather workers, pleaters, shoemakers, flower makers, milliners, glove makers, hatters, leatherworkers, and more. Not only does this collection celebrate these artisans, but it also celebrates the magic of savoir-faire in its entirety.
In December 2021, Chanel inaugurated a new artistic creation space called Le19M. The goal of the Paris-based space is to preserve handicrafts and make space for the artisans who keep these arts alive, especially in luxury fashion. Learn more about the space and residents in our article here.
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Words by Alison Morrison & Bridget Kitson
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