The Italian designer debuts her first collection for Calvin Klein at New York Fashion Week, marking the brand’s runway return after over 6 years.
Under the eyes of the original it girls of the 90s black-and-white Calvin Klein ads Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, the newly-appointed Creative Director unveiled her highly-anticipated debut collection on the second day of New York Fashion Week.
A historical feat in many ways, Veronica Leoni became the first female Creative Director at Calvin Klein, succeeding Raf Simons whose departure 6 years ago left the brand leaderless. Her appointment therefore caught the attention of critics and fanatics alike, and the show invite’s use of Calvin Klein’s 90s sans serif font made the ordeal all that more exciting.
As it was hinted, this Autumn/Winter 2025 collection nodded to the 90s, in all its Calvin Klein-coded glory. Minimalism was the plat du jour, as per the precisely tailored suiting, collar-peeping knit sweaters, and silk button-up shirts. Backstage, Leoni exclaimed the important role the brand’s archives play in her vision for the future, without relying on nostalgia. Afterall, her show notes do state her desire to bring “Mr. Klein’s original vision and distinctive approach into the current day.”
With a largely neutral colour palette that ranges from a 9 A.M. networking breakfast in a shiny grey to a lunch hour visit to Saks Fifth in a deep khaki, Leoni created a range of staples that stray away from basics, soon to be found in every ladies who lunch’s wardrobe in the tri-state area.
While this collection’s roots were firmly grounded in the 90s heyday of the all-American brand, Leoni kept the conversation focused on the 21st century figure. The collarless suiting, the caped overcoats, and the espresso brown looped coat brought on a sense of modernity to the collection. The layered tunics-on-skirts looks in particular felt like a reimagination of Lipstick Jungle’s Nico Reilly’s wardrobe if the show was set in the 2020s, while the silky overcoat with exposed while stitching should be on the moodboard for Samatha Jones’ winter list if the character had returned for And just like that… (leopard-print, bottle-shaped clutch bag included).
All in all, it’s clear to see why Veronica Leoni is such a great fit for Calvin Klein’s “Collection” line. The Italian designer came into the role boasting a hefty resumé, with stints at Jil Sander and Céline (yes, the #oldceline under Phoebe Philo). She is also the former design director of The Row, and started her own label, Quira, in 2020, which was subsequently nominated for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers in 2023. To say Leoni doesn’t have a clear plan and vision for Calvin Klein would be heavily misguided.
While successful, Leoni’s debut collection still leaves us with certain unanswered questions, and, possibly, foreseeable issues for the creative direction of Calvin Klein. Mainly, how will Calvin Klein compete with the top dogs of the so-called “quiet luxury” trend which has been championed by the likes of Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen’s The Row and Phoebe Philo’s eponymous brand? Will Calvin Klein be able to remain palatable to the average household American while aesthetically positioning itself closer to a much wealthier demographic? Will Leoni manage to create a hero product that will amass as much buzz as the classic Calvin Klein waistband-branded underwear? Only time will tell, and we, for one, will be watching.
Words – Juliette Eleuterio
