It’s late summer, and with that comes arguably some of the finest produce: intensely sweet fruit such as peaches and greengages, which can be incorporated into our savoury cooking. Paired with bold, rich meat or fish, the flavour of the fruit comes alive and becomes the star of the show. These dishes are to be enjoyed while taking in the last of the summer warmth, with a glass of wine and in the company of friends and family.
Mackerel, greengages and slaw (pictured top)
Prep 15 min
Chill 1 hr+
Cook 15 min
Serves 4
For the fish
4 x 150g mackerel fillets, or 8 smaller ones
3 tbsp sunflower oil, plus a little extra for the greengages
1½ tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed
¾ tsp crushed chilli flakes
¾ tsp nigella seeds
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
Salt and black pepper
4 greengages
For the slaw
½ pointed hispi cabbage, shredded
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely diced
½ fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced
100ml buttermilk
Juice of ½ lemon
1 bunch dill, chopped
A few parsley sprigs, chopped
Put the fish fillets on a baking tray, pour over the oil, then sprinkle over the spices, garlic, half a teaspoon of salt and a pinch of ground black pepper. Toss to coat, then chill for one to two hours.
Turn on the grill to high (or light the barbecue). In the meantime, put all the slaw ingredients and a half-teaspoon of salt in a bowl, mix, then adjust the seasoning to taste and set aside.
Cut the greengages in half and lightly oil them. Grill cut side up (or barbecue cut side down) for three or four minutes, until softened and lightly scorched, then remove and set aside.
Grill the mackerel skin side up (or barbecue it skin side down) for two minutes, then flip over and cook for just a minute on the flesh side. Squeeze a little lemon over the fish, then transfer to four plates. Serve each portion with two greengage halves and a stack of slaw alongside.
Pork chops with pancetta, peach, runner beans, almonds and chilli
Prep 15 min
Marinate 8 hr +
Cook 20 min
Serves 4
For the chops
4 x 300g pork chops, rinds removed
4-6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
4 tbsp good olive oil
A few thyme sprigs, picked and chopped
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
Salt
To finish
50g flaked almonds
150g smoked pancetta, diced
1 tbsp sugar
2 ripe peaches, halved and stoned
400g runner beans, kept whole, lightly blanched for 2 minutes in lightly salted boiling water, then refreshed under cold running water
2 red chillies, deseeded and chopped
1 splash white-wine vinegar
1 splash good olive oil
Put the chops in a deep-sided dish, scatter over the garlic, olive oil, thyme and chilli flakes, then cover and put in the fridge to marinate for eight hours, or overnight.
The next day, spread the flaked almonds on an oven tray and toast in a 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5 oven for five or so minutes, until lightly golden. Meanwhile, fry the pancetta in a dry frying pan, stirring often, for four or five minutes, until the fat renders out and the pancetta is coloured all over. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pancetta to a small bowl or plate, keeping as much fat in the pan as possible – you’ll use this later to dress the beans.
Season the chops generously with salt, and grill (or barbecue) on a medium-high heat for five to six minutes on each side, until cooked through (take care not to burn them). Transfer the chops to a plate or board to rest.
Meanwhile, sprinkle the sugar on the cut side of the peaches and grill cut side up (or barbecue cut side down) for two minutes. Turn and grill on the other side, then set aside at room temperature. Grill the runner beans for a minute or two on each side, just until they take on a little colour, add them to the warm oil in the pancetta pan along with the chilli, almonds and reserved fried pancetta, and toss to coat.
Cut the grilled peaches into wedges and dress with a little white-wine vinegar and olive oil. Arrange the runner beans on a serving dish, lay the chops on top and serve surrounded by the peach wedges.
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James Mossman is head chef of 10 Greek Street, London W1, which this year celebrates its 10th anniversary.
