I could write a love letter to potatoes – baked, fried, roasted, mashed or dauphinoise’d, they’re almost certainly my favourite vegetable. (Please don’t tell me they aren’t actually a vegetable; I will cover my ears, and refuse to listen.) One of the best things about them is their versatility; I love pairing them with big flavours, be it lime pickle in today’s moreish little potato cakes, or punchy leeks and dijon mustard in my new favourite lunch, crisp loaded potato skins. My top tip for both recipes? Use the strongest cheddar you can find for maximum flavour.
Cheddar and kale potato cakes with lime pickle yoghurt dip (pictured above)
Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4
1kg potatoes, washed and thinly sliced
100g kale, finely chopped
2 slices white bread
150ml milk
30g butter
1-2 heaped tbsp lime pickle, finely chopped
75g mature cheddar, grated
Sea salt flakes, to taste
Neutral oil, for frying
For the dip
1 tbsp lime pickle, finely chopped
100g yoghurt
Boil the potatoes in a large pan of salted water for seven minutes, or until almost cooked through, then add the kale and cook for two to three minutes more, until wilted. Drain well, then cover with a tea towel and leave to steam-dry for five minutes.
Meanwhile, soak the bread in a third of the milk. In a large bowl, mash the potatoes and the kale with a potato masher, then add the remaining 100ml milk, butter, lime pickle (add a tablespoon to start with, then taste; if you prefer a stronger flavour, add a second tablespoon) and cheddar. Tear the soaked bread into small pieces, add that, too, then mix well. Taste and adjust the salt as needed.
Leave the potato mix to cool, then form it into about 20 small cakes. Put a tablespoon of oil in a large frying pan on a medium heat, then fry the potato cakes in batches for three minutes on each side, until golden brown; add more oil as required. Don’t be tempted to turn the potato cakes too early; leave them be and they won’t stick. Transfer each batch to a plate lined with kitchen paper as you go.
Stir the lime pickle into the yoghurt to make a dip, and serve with the hot potato cakes.
Leek, cheddar and mustard loaded potatoes
Prep 15 min
Cook 50 min
Serves 4
4 large baking potatoes
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for rubbing
Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt flakes
30g butter
2 leeks, trimmed, washed and thinly sliced
100g mature cheddar, grated
2 tsp dijon mustard
150ml double cream
1 small handful white breadcrumbs
Stab the potatoes several times on each side with a fork, rub with a little oil and salt, then put on a microwaveable plate. Microwave on high for eight minutes, turn and microwave for a further eight minutes on the other side. Check they are cooked through by prodding them with the fork, and if need be microwave for another minute or two.
Meanwhile, melt a tablespoon of butter and the oil in a large frying pan on a medium heat, stir in the leeks, cover the pan and cook, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes, until softened.
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Cut the cooked potatoes in half and scoop out almost all the flesh, leaving a neat shell of skin. Arrange the skins cut side down on a lined baking sheet, drizzle with oil and pop them in the oven just while you finish the filling.
Mix the cooked potato flesh with the softened leeks, three-quarters of the cheddar, the mustard and double cream. Taste and season accordingly. Remove the shells from the oven, turn them over cut side up, then divide the potato and leek mixture equally between them (it will fill them generously, which is how you want them).
Scatter over the remaining cheddar, the breadcrumbs and a good grind of black pepper, then return to the oven for 30 minutes, until the tops are golden brown. Serve piping hot.
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Rukmini Iyer is the author of the Roasting Tin series. Her latest book is India Express: Fresh and Delicious Recipes for Every Day, published by Square Peg at £22. To order a copy for £19.14, go to guardianbookshop.com
