Burberry and Gucci, which both show this week, have a lot to prove. Both labels have underperformed their peers for years and are betting on âbrand elevationâ strategies and designer resets to boost results. So far, they have provided case studies in how hard shifting consumer perception and pushing a brand upmarket can be, especially in a tough market where luxury demand has slowed.
At Burberry, itâs unclear whether the brand can command the price points that Daniel Leeâs looks require or whether the designer can adapt his vision to the labelâs current reality. Whatâs more, while the brand has found some fresh, more elevated ways to tap into the âBritishnessâ of its DNA, much of what it has released recently has been too niche and complicated a take on what makes Britain desirable for most Burberry shoppers. Will the upcoming show click?
Meanwhile at Gucci, Sabato De Sarnoâs palette-cleansing debut in September (an approach that was âmirroredâ in his first menâs outing in January) helped put the brand back on the radar, but there wasnât enough newness to generate the kind of heat the label needs to kick things back into gear. De Sarnoâs collections have been precise, sexy and youthful, but have thus far failed to tell a story about what the new Gucci stands for. The designer needs to show he can do more than create desirable clothes. After the Alessandro Michele boom (and subsequent stagnation), what Gucci needs is a more stable but equally desirable brand story.
What Else to Watch for This Week
Sunday
BAFTA Awards held in London
London Fashion Week: JW Anderson, Supriya Lele, Connor Ives, Dilara Findikoglu
Monday
London Fashion Week: Burberry
Wednesday
Milan Fashion Week: Diesel, Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Etro
OECD Forum on Due Diligence in the Garment and Footwear Sector
Thursday
Milan Fashion Week: Prada, Moschino (Adrian Appiolazaâs debut), Tom Ford
Friday
Milan Fashion Week: Todâs (Matteo Tamburiniâs first collection), Gucci, Marni, Versace
Renewcell reports full-year results
Saturday
Milan Fashion Week: Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, Bally, Bottega Veneta
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