Penelope Cruz is a Chanel ambassador with a well-established relationship with the French fashion house, but her look at the 2024 San Sebastian Film Festival’s opening ceremony left me wanting more.
Dressed in a custom Chanel white guipure and Chantilly lace gown, accented with white silk tulle gathered straps, a black satin bow, a white silk camellia, and jewelled buttons, it’s clear the design team was aiming for something romantic and timeless.
But as much as I appreciate the craftsmanship and intent, this gown just doesn’t feel like a Penelope Cruz dress—and that’s precisely the issue I pointed out during the Emmys last week. In that post, I referenced Brie Larson’s Chanel look, which perfectly suited her vintage, old-Hollywood aesthetic, and Nicole Beharie’s modern elegance in Haute Couture. Both actresses wore gowns that matched their personal style identities. Penelope, unfortunately, did not achieve that here.
This Chanel gown feels disconnected from her essence. While Chanel is known for its classic elegance, this particular dress feels almost too safe, too delicate, and somewhat dated on her.
What’s frustrating is that I can see this gown working beautifully on other Chanel ambassadors like Jennie or Margaret Qualley—women whose fashion personas align with the whimsical, and romantic direction of this design.
So, what do I want for Penelope? Something with more impact, more fire. She thrives in gowns that exude glamour and sensuality, that bring a sense of modern elegance while still feeling unmistakably her. This wasn’t that moment.
Chanel High Jewelry completed her look.
Credit: Raul Terrel/Europa Press via Getty Images / Carlos Alvarez/Getty Images
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