Sri Lankan breakfast and brunch fare is a vibrant reflection of the island’s culinary heritage, blending diverse influences with indigenous flavours. Central to these morning meals are dishes such as kiri hodi, a creamy, coconut milk gravy that’s often paired with string hoppers, and kiribath, a ceremonial rice dish cooked in coconut milk that’s often served on special occasions. Sri Lankan fish curry, meanwhile, made with a unique blend of spices, showcases the country’s love for bold, aromatic flavours. These dishes not only provide a hearty start to any day, but also highlight the cultural significance of coconut and spices in Sri Lankan cuisine.
Egg kiri hodi
Pandan leaves are a staple of south Asian cooking, and bring a lovely freshness to any dish. Look for them in specialist Asian food stores or online; if you can’t get hold of any, just leave it out.
Prep 15 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 4
5 eggs
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
3-4 curry leaves, ideally fresh ones
2½cm piece pandan leaf (optional)
1 green chilli, thinly sliced
1 red chilli, thinly sliced
1 medium tomato
8-10 fenugreek seeds
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 goraka (garcinia) pod, or the juice of ½ lime
Salt
280ml tinned coconut milk, 120ml set aside, the rest diluted with 80ml cold water
A squeeze of lime, to finish
For the kiribath
360g white or basmati rice
2½ tsp salt
10cm piece pandan leaf (optional)
240ml thick coconut milk
First make the kiribath, because it needs time to cool and set. Rinse the rice in cold water three times, until the water runs clear, then put it in a medium saucepan with 470ml cold water, two teaspoons of salt and the pandan, if using. Bring the rice to a boil, turn down the heat to a bare simmer, then cover and leave to cook for 10 minutes.
When the rice is almost cooked, stir the remaining half-teaspoon of salt into the thick coconut milk (keep the spoon, because you’ll use it again later), pour into the rice and mix well. Cover again, turn down the heat to the lowest possible setting and leave the rice for 10 minutes more, scraping the bottom of the pan occasionally, so it doesn’t catch and burn too much.
Tip the hot rice on to a platter, run the back of the coconut milk spoon over the top to flatten, and leave to cool and set. Once set, cut into squares or blocks.
While the kiribath is cooling, make the egg kiri hodi. Put four of the eggs in a saucepan and fill with cold water to come roughly 2½cm above the eggs. Bring to a rapid boil, cover the pan, take off the heat and set aside. Do not lift the lid. After seven minutes, drain the eggs, leave to cool, then peel off the shells.
Put the sliced onion, curry leaves, pandan, if using, both chillies, tomato, fenugreek seeds, turmeric, goraka (or lime juice) and a pinch of salt in another saucepan, add roughly 120ml water and bring to a simmer. Pour in the diluted coconut milk and bring to a boil. Stir in the reserved 120ml undiluted coconut milk and simmer for three minutes.
Beat the remaining egg in a bowl, tip this into the kiri hodi mix and cook, stirring, for a minute. Add the shelled boiled eggs to the pan and simmer gently for two minutes, just to warm through. Add a squeeze of lime, then serve with the kiribath.
Sri Lankan fish curry
Prep 20 min
Marinate 1 hr
Cook 45 min
Serves 4-6
For the fish
700g sustainably-sourced firm white fish (eg, cod, haddock, tilapia)
½ tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
For the unroasted curry powder
4 tbsp coriander seeds
2 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
7½cm-10cm cinnamon stick
For the curry
5 tbsp coconut oil
½ tsp mustard seeds
½ tsp cumin seeds
¼ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
10-15 curry leaves, fresh, ideally
6 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
2½cm piece cinnamon stick
½ tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp chilli powder
590ml coconut milk
1-2 green finger chillies, finely chopped (discard the pith and seeds if you prefer less heat)
5cm piece pandan leaf (optional)
Juice of ½ lime
Put the fish, turmeric, salt and pepper in a large bowl, toss well to coat, then cover and marinate in the fridge for an hour.
Meanwhile, make the curry powder. In a mortar or spice grinder, grind all the ingredients to a fine powder.
For the curry, put the coconut oil in a medium saucepan on a medium heat and, once hot, add the mustard, cumin and fenugreek seeds, and cook, stirring, for 30 or so seconds, until fragrant.
Add the sliced onion, cook, stirring often, for eight minutes, until light golden brown, then stir in the curry leaves and cook, stirring, for a minute longer. Add the garlic, ginger and cinnamon, and cook for two minutes more.
Add the turmeric, chilli powder and a tablespoon of the ground unroasted curry powder (keep the rest in a sealed jar and use within three months) and cook, stirring, until the spices smell aromatic. Stir in the coconut milk and a pinch of salt, then bring the curry sauce to a boil.
Turn down the heat to a simmer, gently stir in the marinated fish, green chilli and pandan, if using, cover the pan and leave to cook for 10 minutes. Take off the heat, leave to rest for 10 minutes, then gently stir in the lime juice. Serve with crusty white bread and/or the kiribath above.
The Guardian aims to publish recipes for sustainable fish. Check ratings in your region: UK; Australia; US.
