A photo of tacos de papas con cebolla, with the potato, chili and onion mixture in an earthen red bowl next to a stack of slightly charred corn tortillas. Behind the dishes is a bottle of Valentina’s hot sauce.

Tacos de tinga de pollo (shredded chilli chicken tacos)

(Pictured above)

As chipotle is my favourite chilli, this tinga sauce is always present in my home, and on the menu in my Sydney restaurants. Diners are always delighted with the flavour and the smoky taste that the adobo brings, as well as the colour and spiciness. Some like to add sour cream to reduce the heat and, even though this is not a common mix in Mexico, I have to confess that I like it.

But what I like the most about tinga is its versatility – it can be served at room temperature if you’re making tostadas, or used as a topping for sopes or tacos, as here. And you can make a vegetarian version, using carrots or zucchini instead of chicken.

Makes 12

1kg skinless chicken breasts
5 bay leaves
5 white onions, finely sliced, plus 1 onion extra, cut in half
tbsp table salt
4 roma tomatoes
, roughly chopped
100g chipotles in adobo sauce
1 garlic clove
2 tbsp vegetable oil
12 tortillas de maiz
(corn tortillas)

Place the chicken, bay leaves, one onion half and half the salt in a large saucepan and add enough water to cover. Bring to the boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes or until the chicken is just cooked through. Remove the chicken from the cooking liquid and set aside to cool slightly, reserving the liquid. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, shred it with your fingers or two forks.

Using a blender, blend the tomatoes, chipotles, garlic, remaining onion half, 100ml of the chicken cooking liquid and the remaining salt.

Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and saute the sliced onion for about 10 minutes or until lightly coloured. Add the tomato chipotle sauce and cook, stirring constantly, for about 10 minutes or until the sauce darkens in colour. Add the chicken and cook, stirring frequently, for about 20 minutes or until the mixture is reduced and thick.

Serve the tinga in the tortillas.

Tacos de papas con cebolla (potato and onion tacos)

In tacos de papas con cebolla, you want some potatoes to be smashed, and some potatoes to remain in diced pieces. Photograph: Alicia Taylor

My friend Lulu used to have this on her table at lunchtime. I remember putting it into my tacos – the spicy flavour with fresh chilli and the potato made it truly delicious. It’s a very common filling at street stalls where it’s often available as a complementary topping.

It’s one of my favourites.

Here I use green jalapeño, serrano or Thai chillies, but you can also use poblano chillies to give extra flavour. You can also add a pinch of paprika for added colour.

Makes 8

1kg potatoes, cut into 5mm dice
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 white or brown onion, finely sliced
5 green jalapeño, serrano or Thai chillies, sliced
1 tsp table salt
Pinch of black pepper

To serve
8 tortillas de maiz (corn tortillas) or sliced white bread (optional)
Valentina hot sauce
Lime wedges

Place the potato in a large saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce the heat slightly and simmer for about 10 minutes, until just cooked through. Drain.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat, add the onion and saute for about seven minutes, until lightly browned. Add the chilli and cook, stirring frequently, for three to four minutes, until soft, then add the potato, salt and pepper, stir and lightly mash the potato – you want some potatoes to be smashed, and some potatoes to remain in diced pieces.

Serve hot or cold in a tortilla or bread slice, or as a side to other dishes, with a drizzle of Valentina hot sauce and lime wedges.

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Tacos gobernador, or cheesy prawn tacos, piled two to three on a plate alongside a bowl of guacamole falso and a lime wedge. The plates are variously made of ochre-coloured glass or ceramic.
Serve the tacos gobernador hot with guacamole falso drizzled over the top and lime wedges on the side. Photograph: Alicia Taylor

Tacos gobernador (cheesy prawn tacos)

This recipe is originally from Sinaloa in the north of Mexico where seafood is abundant. In Mexico City, these tacos come with the addition of cheese and, of course, our famous fake guacamole. Tacos gobernador are not that old, being first served in a well-known restaurant in Mazatlán called Los Arcos, but in the City we serve them in different styles and with different ingredients. I have seen them made with prawn and bacon, beans, fish and even fresh habaneros, but I’ll share an easy recipe that everyone will love!

1 tbsp unsalted butter
½ white or brown onion
, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 poblano chilli or banana chilli, cut into strips
500g peeled raw king prawns, roughly diced
1 tsp table salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
1 roma tomato
, finely diced
2 tbsp chipotle in adobo sauce
1 tbsp whole egg mayonnaise
1 tbsp sour cream
100g tasty cheese
, grated
10 tortillas de maiz (corn tortillas)
Vegetable oil spray
Guacamole falso, to serve (recipe below)
Lime wedges, to serve

Makes 10

In a frying pan over medium heat, melt the butter, then add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, for three to four minutes, until the onion is soft. Add the poblano chilli and stir for five minutes until soft, then add the prawns, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until half the liquid in the pan has evaporated. Add the tomato, reduce the heat to low, then add the chipotle in adobo sauce, mayonnaise and sour cream. Stir until the ingredients are combined and heated through, then remove from the heat.

Divide the prawn mixture and the cheese among the tortillas and fold in half like a quesadilla.

Heat a comal or frying pan over medium heat and spray with vegetable oil. Add the folded tortillas and cook, turning occasionally, until the cheese melts.

Serve the tacos hot with guacamole falso drizzled over the top and lime wedges on the side.

Guacamole falso (fake guacamole)

A dish of guacamole falso, a light yellow-green sauce, with a wooden spoon next to it.
Do not add water to your guacamole falso when you’re blending it – it’ll ruin the secret! Photograph: Alicia Taylor

Guacamole is one of Mexico’s favourite salsas. However, the large amount of avocados used every day per stall, and their increasing price, affects businesses and so we turn to other recipes such as our famous “secret guacamole”.

I discovered this secret not long ago and it was exciting for our Mexican community in Australia – we all recognised the flavour and consistency and it bought back memories of our favourite taco stalls. Have it on your table for topping tacos or quesadillas or just to scoop up with some totopos.

If you can’t find tomatillos, you can use green capsicum here.

Serves 6

5 fresh or tinned tomatillos
2 Lebanese or green zucchini,
chopped
5 green jalapeno or serrano chillies, stems removed, roughly chopped
½ white onion, chopped
Small handful of coriander leaves, including a few stems
2 tsp table salt
Juice of 1 lime
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tsp white vinegar

If you are lucky enough to find fresh tomatillos, remove the husks and thoroughly wash the fruit. If using tinned tomatillos, drain and rinse them. Roughly chop the tomatillos.

CDMX by Rosa Cienfuegos, published by Smith Street Books, distributed by Thames & Hudson Australia, AUD$55.00 NZD$59.99, available now.

Blend all the ingredients together to reach a creamy consistency. Do not add water as it’ll ruin the secret!

Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to five days.

  • This is an edited extract of CDMX by Rosa Cienfuegos, photography by Alicia Taylor, available now through Smith Street Books ($55)

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